Inca Sites Around Cuzco

Machu Picchu & The Inca-Trail are the main tourist attraction near Cuzco. But, there are about 10 more major sites around Cuzco, most of them don`t resemble the Machu Picchu, and if you`ve got the time - it`s certainly worth it to go and observe them from up close.

To do so, one must first purchase the ´´Boleto Turistico´´, an expensive way for the Peruvians to make you think you`re about to see a lot, but then - no one really has the time to visit all 16 sites included. The updated price for the ticket is 130 Soles (about 45$US) for adult, or 70 Soles (about 24$US) just for a one day visit (one tour). It is valid for 10 days.

This is the story of a family, trying to see as much as they could - in the three days they had.

We booked all of the tours before going to the Inca-Trail, through one agency - Inca Sol Travel, located on Av. El Sol 101. That way we got a pretty good price for 3 different tours (City Tour, Valle Sagrada & Moray).
City Tour:

All sites in this tour are located near the city, and could be reached in one day. If you`ve got strength in your legs - take a Taxi early in the morning to Tambomachay and walk your way back to Cuzco (less then 5Km). We took the tour.
Coricancha:

Located in Av.El Sol and not included in the ´´Boleto Turistico´´, looks like a fort from the outside. It is definitely the best way to witness how the Spanish (Christians) treated with ´´respect´´, the local Incas.

Half of the building is still Inca made, but on the other - the Spaniards just destroyed everything and built it the way they thought was better. Luckily, we can still see the perfection of the Inca´s work. Also in this site - The Smallest Inca-Stone found in a building.
Sacsaywaman:
Not pronounced ´´Sexy Woman´´, but still is fun to say.

With a beautiful view above the city of Cuzco, This site is most famous for it`s ´´Big Ass´´ Inca-Stones. As you mite have guessed, here lies The Biggest Inca-Stone ever found in a building.

In Sacsaywaman, we also learnt about the importance of Peruvian (or South-American) accuracy:

Guide: ´´There you can see the largest stadium in the world!´´

An American tourist: ´´Really?! how big?´´

Guide: ´´It has 42,000 seats!´´

Qènqo:

Also known as the labyrinth, is a very small but impressive site. It`s located in the middle of the woods, and most of it is underground. We even met a ´´real´´ Inca!
Puca Pucara:

Looks like a fort from a far, but resembles an old night-club from the top - with a flat square on the top of the ruins.
Tambomachay:

Located just 400m from Puca Pucara, locals sell souvenirs here (a regular tourist market in South America). After a short climb while the sun was setting, we reached the Water Fountains.

Valle Sagrada (The Sacred Valley):

Day 2 of our tour. These sites are a bit more remote from Cuzco. We chose Thursday for this tour because that way we see the Pisac Market as well.

Pisac Market:
We hoped to have more time here, because we love markets. Locals come to buy spices, tourists come to buy souvenirs. Given only 25 minutes, we had to run through it - and we still didn`t see 30% of it.

Pisac Remains:
Great view point and lots of terraces. Located above the Sacred Valley. Near the Inca site, we got to see Catacombs (graves located in the cliffs in front of the site). They were built in a way that animals wouldn`t be able to reach them. Grave robbers (another kind of animal) did reach them, and there for - they are today opened.

Ollaytambo:
More stairs!? Yes. Apparently, the Incas loved to ascend/descend. After climbing all the terraces, you reach another great view point. On the top of the site, the Spaniards didn`t leave so much to see (damaged a lot). There`s an Inca face carved in the mountain. Back down there`s the prinscess´s fountain of youth and another fountain with a triple Andian-Cross.

Chinchero:

The Spaniards really liked the Inca´s temples, that`s why all you could see from Chinchero is a Christian church. At list the Spaniards couldn`t take the sunsets away from South America.

Moray & The Salt Mine of Maras:

Day 3 of our tour. We mainly wanted to see Moray`s terraces, but got the interesting Salt-Mines in the same package.

Moray:

The amazingly shaped terraces used to function as an agricultural laboratory, each step is said to be in a different temperature & micro-climate. When in the bottom & the middle of it all, there are great acoustics.

The Salt Mines of Maras:

Also not included in the ´´Boleto Turistico´´ (entrance 5 Soles), but astonishing.

A whole valley filled with drying pools fed by a salty spring. The workers randomly free/shut the water´s stream allowing the pools the fill up or dry slowly in the Peruvian sun.

Parade In Cuzco:

When we got back to Cuzco every night, we tried seeing some more sites already included in the ´´Boleto Turistico´´. One of them is a horrifying dancing show where we got too late to, but still left before the end.

Another evening, we witnessed a parade in the main street of Cuzco (Av. Del Sol). Same dances as shown on the show, but this time we could choose to go on (just walk further down the street) when we got tired from the traditional dance (same routine...).

Tips for the Cuzco Area:

- If you`ve got just one day - do the City Tour yourself by taking a taxi to Tambomachay and walking back to the city. Pay just the one day ticket.

- Inka Sol Travel were really nice to us, and if you book several tours, be sure to ask for a discount. The guides working for this company are not the best, but you can always walk far from them and enjoy the sites by yourselves. Most companies in South America take a commission just for connecting you to the origin company - Inka Sol Travel is an origin company with their own tours - making them cheaper.

- There`s a really good, all you can eat, Indian restaurant just across the street from Inka Sol Travel.

- You can skip the traditional dancing show.

The Inca Trail & The Machu Picchu

This special trek had to be arranged 3 months in advance in order that all of us would have room during the desired dates. We chose a private tour, not knowing our ability to carry all the equipment by ourselves, or how well we would all keep up with other (more fit) people.
We were told to arrive on the 1st of July to Cuzco, so that we could pay the remaining 50% of the payment directly to the company (Enigma), as well as to be briefed by the guide on the 2nd. The trek would start only on the 3rd of July.
Apart from those specific meetings, we didn’t have planes for the 1st & 2nd of July, so meanwhile we just rested (we took a night bus from Puno) and walked around the beautiful center of Cuzco.
2.7.10, evening, we are all packed up, ready to go and waiting (I drink ‘Goldstar’, my first good beer in months! Brought especially for me strait from Israel!) for our guide (Milton) to show up. He arrives late (first bad impression), but apologizes nicely. The briefing goes fast and well. The main outcome of the meeting is a repack of the bags and the fact that we don’t have to wake up as early as we thought (03:00am), and could sleep a bit late (06:00am).
Day 1:
07:00am, 3.7.10. We leave the hostel and drive off to K82 (the starting point of the Inca- Trail, located 82km from Cuzco).
For us (me and my family), the whole idea of going to the Machu Picchu is like a dream
come true, and to be able to be there as a family – that’s a whole new level of fun.
The first day doesn`t give us a taste of what awaits us in the following... We start on with a flat walk, Milton stopping every 5 minutes to explain something. It`s nice - at first, but we start thinking about making an effort and progress. The first climb (and not last...) is just around the corner.
On the way, we mange to witness some of the Inca remains that were built close by to the Inca-Trail. Sallapunku & Wilkarakay are bellow the trail, and we explore them in our minds (Hopping the real thing is a lot nicer!).
In the middle of the trail, we stop to eat lunch; The kitchen/dinning tent is made and ready to feed us. From meal to meal, we will learn to love our awesome chef Teo. Just a bit more, and we`re one day closer to our goal!
Tired, we arrive to camp Wallabamba (3100masl). The porters clap there hands as we enter the campsite, our tents (Three of 4-Pax, a per in each leaves a lot of room) already made. The kitchen/dinning tent is also up, and after washing our hands, and eating the great Israeli made (by Inbal) Brownies, we continue to a great dinner. Knowing what awaits us tomorrow, we all fall asleep very easily.
Day 2:
Waking up and leaving before everybody, we start the 1100m ascent to Abra Warmiwanyusca (4200masl). We climb together. Slowly. Inbal is having trouble to keep up, and so we find ourselves walking even slower. Milton stopped explaining, and instead complains about our achievements in height. Even though we are the last group to do so and Milton was of no help, we all arrive to the pass happy, and satisfied.
The pass is the highest point in the Inca-Trail which makes the second day the hardest of all the 4 days of the trip. Knowing the worst is behind us, we descend 600m the same day and arrive to camp Pacaymayo (3600masl).
Day 3:
First to wake up, knowing our abilities (Milton has a hard time excepting that...), and starting to climb (again!). After an hour of ascent we, reach Runkurakay (3800masl), AKA ´The Balcony´. From it, we can see Rio Pacaymayo, and Milton (happy to get there early), throws out a short explanation. From Runkurakay, we ascend some more, and reach a Lagoon. Today Inbal is feeling great and reaches all the summits first!
To Abra Runkurakay (3924masl) we arrive first of the groups (not including the running porters) and continue quickly to being the first group to descend and arrive to Sayacmarca (3600masl), AKA ´The Fourte´. Sayacmarca was the most impressive remain before Machu-Picchu. It is located on top of a steep cliff, which makes it very strategic. Too bad the Inca knew nothing about strategics. From it, we can see camp Chanquicocha (3680masl), our lunch break location. Before lunch, we descend to Conchamarka (3500masl).
On the Inca-Trail, each group registers for certain campsites, and is not allowed to switch between them. Arriving fast to the lunch area, Milton decides to take a risk and try and sleep a bit closer to Machu Picchu tonight. The plan is to tell the rangers that we (the family) felt sick, and needed to continue (down) so we`d feel better. The Porters get the message, so that they could make camp in the right campsite.
We have to climb some more before the major descent to our new campsite. On the way, we pass Inca Tunnels carved inside the mountains. Puyupatamarka (3600masl), our registered campsite, is located high and as we pass it we had a good first view of Aguas Calientes and also could feel how cold it would have been that night (lots of winds). On the way down, Inca stairs help us locate our knees. We pass the Puyupatamarka remains shortly after leaving the camp with the same name. There, we learn that the porters don´t like to serve groups here because of the fact that they have to climb up and down from the remains to the camp in order to bring water.
Winyay Wayna (2700masl), is the biggest looking camp yet, and it seems to us, that no one really sleeps up at Puyupatamarka. On arrival, 17:00 tea & popcorn are served to the table. Later on, a great looking dinner is serves as well, in order to say farewell to the porters and chef which we wouldn`t see the following day.
Day 4:
This is the day! For this we waited!
The Inca-Trail finishes in a gate that blocks the trekkers on the trail from getting early to the Inti Punku (The Sun Gate) & The desired Machu Picchu. In order to be first in the cue near the gate, we woke up at 03:00am.The gate opens at 05:30am, and the sunrise (a very beautiful one - so they say), is said to be 06:30am. The walk takes an hour. We divided to three and three, Mom (Orly), Dad (Shlomo) & Inbal behind (walking slower), and Kobi, Igal & I running with all the recording gear (3 cameras & a tripod) in the front. The sunrise was not worth the run. Calling it `The Sun Gate´, the Incas meant that the sun could be watched rising up, from Machu Picchu itself, and not from the Sun Gate. We still were happy to finally see the great and beautiful Machu Picchu, from high up!
We stayed, resting, on the Inti Punku (2700masl), until the sun went up and over Machu Picchu. Then climbed down to the sacred site.
Machu Picchu:
Only 400 people are allowed to climb to the Wayna Picchu (2700masl), making it impossible for the Inca-Trail trekkers to reach it on the same day. We were with the rest.
Passing quickly through the famous remains, we head for the entrance where we are supposed to get out and then in again (Milton says that`s the only way to go, though it seems stupid). Then, after being recognized as the right ticket owners (they check passports!), we head back to the dream.
The town is located on a `saddle` between two mountains (Wayna Picchu & Inti Punku). It is said to be a sacred agricultural laboratory, and so hundreds of terraces welcome us to our right (downwards) and to our left (upwards).
We first sit down and listen to what seemed to be an endless history lecture by Milton. He then frees us from his spell, and we go to the next spot of interest.
The Main Gate - A big open door was built, only Incas (kings, rulers & monks) were allowed to enter through it, all the rest were told to step aside. At night, the whole town was `shut`. The door was closed with two poles tied into a shape of a cross and a blanket made of leather was connected to them. Never was the door `really` closed.
Entering in the ways of kings, we go to see the main courtyard. All temples were built with giant `Inca-Stones` - very impressive! The Pachemama Temple, The Sun-Clock Temple The Condor Temple, The Stars Temple, The Wayna Picchu Temple & The Sun Temple all built for the purpose of serving the gods (Mother-Earth, Condors, Stars, Mountains, and the Sun), today are walked upon by Tourists and explained about by guides (serving the money god).

After the tour with Milton, The strong (Inbal, Igal & I) continued to see the Hanging Bridge. in one word - disappointment. we thought it would be an `Indiana Jones` like bridge, but instead - we got this.
All of us were really tired from the 4 day walk, and some of us didn`t feel good from the early (and unnecessary) run, but we still `ate` all that was in front of us with hungry eyes.

There are not enough words to describe how excited we were to walk around all the amazing structures of the sacred then, and definitely now, Machu Picchu.



From Machu Picchu, we took the bus to Aguas Calientes. We still had a lot of time to spear, and so we went to rest ourselves in the Hot-Springs whome give the name to the town. Like any other thermal bath I took around South America, these ones were disapointing. We still had fun together (as a family).
Bathed and happy, we took the train + bus back to Cuzco.



Tips for The Inca-Trail & Machu Picchu:
- Book ahead. Do to the strict bureaucracy of the National Park and the Peruvian Government & it`s popularity, you can`t enter the beautiful Inca-Trail unless you book 3-4 months ahead. Children under a certain age get 20$ discount (we discovered that too late).
- Check in advance which campsites you are booked to, and what time your train back to Cuzco is. This will save you a lot of worries. (we were booked to the wrong campsites, and at first had a train at 14:00 leaving us with about 5 hours in the Machu Picchu site).
- Enigma is a very expensive company recommended by the Lonely Planet. We were treated badly, had worries and trouble about the booked campsites and train back, and they `forgot` to mention to us about the discount we deserve (Igal & Kobi are young enough - that`s 40$!). Putting that a side, eventually they managed to fix the campsites & train problems, and their porters and chef did an outstanding job!
- Milton was not professional. He complained a lot, and stopped to explain in the wrong moments.
- Even though the walk is nice, the Hanging Bridge is not that impressive.

The Peruvian Side of Lago Titicaca

Peru, the fifth country in my trip (Argentina, Chile, Brazil, and Bolivia so far…), welcomes us in Puno. Puno is the Peruvian tourist gateway to Lago Titicaca. On the bus from Copacabana, Bolivia, we meet Edgar, a nice agent that ended up helping us with everything we wanted in the Puno area + the hostel we ended up sleeping at in Cuzco.

Edgar led us to a nice & small hostel called La Casa Del Abuelo (Grandpa’s House), it was close to the center, and we enjoyed both the center & the hostel very much. Searching for a place to eat, we found a small pizzeria, named ‘Pizza Andina’, where they make your pizza right in front of you in a small stove. The streets of Puno are so cold, and the warmth of the restaurant was just perfect. The pizzas were served on a really thin base, and with loads of toppings to our choice.

The next morning we went on a 2 day tour around the islands on the Peruvian side of Lago Titicaca. The tour starts on the Floating Islands; these Islands are specially built by local Indians from floating mud, straws and ropes. On top of the hand-made platforms, they build their houses, kitchens & there’s even a fish pool. We had explanations about how the islands were built, and what people do and eat. We also got a chance to ride a traditional Indian boat made of only straw. These boats have an expiration date of up to three months. Today, the main income of the Floating Islands is tourism, but as touristic as they get, they’re still very special.

Next stop of the tour was Isla Amantani, a ‘none touristic’ island (then how come we go there?), where we were introduced to our hosting families whom served us lunch (mainly different varieties of potatoes), and showed us our rooms for the night. In the afternoon we met again with the rest of the group, and went on a walk on the island – to see the Pachetata (Father Earth) temple. Because of height problems, we made it to the temple only in time to witness the sunset. The temple itself is opened for the people only one day a year, finding a hole in the wall we managed to see the big phallus sculptured in the middle of the temple. Climbed down, ate dinner with the hosting family (mainly potatoes), and slept in our small beds (people of the Andes are really short). In the morning we ate a pancake for breakfast (that’s right, just one…).

The last stop of the tour was Isla Taquile, a touristic island (most of the tours go through it), where all of the people wear traditional clothing and are known for their excellence in knitting. All the people are very colorful. On the island we also had lunch (which wasn’t included in the trip); the guide takes you up the island, between the houses, and enters the restaurant. He then asks everyone to sit and hear his explanation about the clothing on the island, just when he finishes (after 3-5 plates with good smells fly by…), he asks who wants to stay and eat there. The prices were fine, so we stayed, but the pressure feasting was not a nice memory.

Back in Puno, we ordered a hostel in Cuzco through Edgar, and went to eat again in Pizza Andina.

Tips for The Peruvian Side of Lago Titicaca:

- The tour we took (The Floating Islands, Isla Amantani & Isla Taquile) was really short but satisfying. We got to see three different places in just 2 days.

- Pizza Andina was certainly a success. You’ll find it on Libertad Street (before it changes to Melgar).

- La Casa Del Abuelo (Jr. Tarapacá 399 y Libertad, Tel. (051) - 363465), is a nice place close to the center. With good beds, hot showers, and nice owners.

- Edgar is a real treasure. Contact him for any help or information (Edgar Cuno Adaza, cell 951-643678, or in La Casa Del Abuelo hostel), and say hi from the Boxerman family.

The Bolivian Side of Lago Titicaca

After returning from the Rio Pirita trek, I had only 3 more days before my family’s arrival. Even if I had the powers to do something (I was very tired after the last trek), I didn’t have the time. So I just rested, walked around the markets I already fell in love with, and watched lots of World-Cup football (soccer). I met Iliya again, and we had a beer together. Dror hasn’t returned yet from Rurenabace. I already found a place for my family near the main market streets.

24.6.10, 18:00PM, Arriving to the airport (located in El-Alto), I found out the flight schedule was delayed by on hour. Arriving one hour earlier (for the first timing), I now had two hours to waste in a very small airport, and 4 month anxious to see my family (especially you, mom!). The meeting went well, surprisingly without tears… and we drove safely back to La Paz.

First time for my family over 3000masl, we planed 2 resting days, to see how everybody feels. Good thing we did, because some of us didn’t like the heights that much. We bought some warm jackets for the rest of the trip and some souvenirs (which is funny because my family always buys them on the last week, to avoid the weight) in the markets of La Paz.

27.6.10. We all leave La Paz (myself after almost 3 weeks), and are on our way to Copa…Copacabana! The bus takes us through the amazing Altiplano, so flat, yet so high! Snowy mountains surround it from the South-East (Cordillerra-Real), the Peruvian mountains from the North-West and Lago Titicaca in the middle. 60 minutes after leaving La Paz, and on the shores of Lago Titicaca, the bus stops. There’s a canal and we all must cross it on boats (The bus on a very small ferry, and the passengers on regular boats).

Copacabana is a small touristic town, with very little things to do. We decide not to stay and continue strait on towards Isla Del Sol (The Island of the Sun). Two hours more on a boat and we were on Isla del Sol. Yumani is the southern town on the island, getting off the boat, people were approaching us with tickets and announcing that everybody must pay (5$B) in order to enter the island. We, and everyone else, didn’t. Once on shore, groups of children started offering us deals for hostels, we locate an empty spot on the grass, leave our stuff and I (the only Spanish speaking person) start checking our options.

My mother (Orly) & Inbal (sister), were not feeling so good (Titicaca is 3800masl), and so we decided to take the closest hostel we could find. Hostel JJacha Inti is just above the marine. We asked for 2 rooms of 3, and got one triple & one room with a bed and 2 mattresses on the floor. We agreed and said it was fine as long as they would bring bed sheets for the mattresses. We were also offered to eat at the hostel, and so we did.
Not so satisfied with our dinner (way too expensive, way too small), we asked again for the sheets for the unmade mattresses, we got an offer for another double room instead (making it three rooms) of the mattresses. We agreed (where were we to go now?). We didn’t want anyone sleeping alone, and so we carried the mattress of the lonely room into the double room (on the floor). The double room had no bathroom (but was charged the same).
The next morning we got to see a beautiful sunrise over the Cordillerra-Real & Lago Titicaca. We left our stuff in the rooms, and went with purpose of getting as fast as we can to the north side of the island. No ‘’public’’ boats leave northward early in the morning (first one leaves at 10:00AM, and its an hour’s sail). Unwillingly, we had no option but to take the ‘’private’’ (and expansive) boat. Lots of boats (and tourists) were going to Copacabana though…

In wide difference from the southern shore of the island, the north shore is flat, has sand, and you could cross the small town of ‘Challapampa’ without forgetting what’s it like with oxygen in your lungs. As we start walking (after a small breakfast), we cross next to the museum and a strange person stops us rudely.
10$B please - he says in Spanish.
Why? – We ask in Hebrew.
To enter the Museum and archeological sites – he answers in his language.
We understand the deal and walk away. He then tries running after us, but understands eventually that he is loosing his next ‘’costumers’’. Being harassed already by three different people on the way (for the same payment), we decide to pay and get it over with (that happened to be the last ‘road-block’).
Inbal doesn’t feel so good with the heights, and she and my mother decide to return to Yumani, without the pleasure of climbing across the island. Only the boys left now. We finish our way up the coast to see the remains, and start our way up the island’s main ‘’mountain’’. The views and the walk are both breathtaking. We go slow, and manage to enjoy it all. The trail seems ancient, but is very comfortable to walk on.

When approaching Yumani, we see a ‘gate’, made of two poles and a sign stretched between them. The sign gladly explains that we have to pay 5$B to pass into Yumani. 2 large ‘Cholas’ block the way and are happy to collect. All the other tourists make some noises, but eventually pay up. I walk first (of the four of us), answer ‘No, Gracias’ pleasantly, and pass though them – with an angry face, they leave us all alone.

Arriving back to the hostel, we found out that our third ‘unused’ room (the one with the bathroom though…), was given, without consulting us, to a group of Americans (who were promised sheets as well…). Angry (we wanted the bathroom, and the agreement was that it is ours), we went to eat dinner somewhere else. Watching from the restaurant, we saw the owner of our hostel offering the same room to an elderly looking tourist. Later that evening, the Americans and the elder were fighting over that same room.

The next morning, we woke up, early again, with intentions of leaving these bloodsucking islanders behind us. This morning, the dock was empty. We had to hire a ‘private’ boat service, again.

From that day on, Isla Del Sol was named ‘Isla del SHOD’ (robbery in Hebrew). And Yumani shall be called ‘Your-Money’.

We decided to leave Copacabana the same day as well, and for that matter, Bolivia in general. In the Bolivian side of the border they charged me 40$B for ‘overstaying’ 2 days in their country (my family got 90 days on their visa and stayed a week, I was there 32 days, but had clearance for 30). What can I say, Bolivians do know how to say goodbye.

Tips for the Bolivian Side of Lago Titicaca:
- The Peruvian side is better.
- The Peruvian side is better.If you do stay a night on Isla Del Sol, stay away from JJacha Inti hostel.