Back from the Santa Cruz and in Huaraz, Paz & I met Itai, another familiar face on my journeys. I first met Itai in La Paz, at Shaul's place. Dror went with him on the Rio Verde trek parallel to my voyage down the Pirita river. We also witnessed the Chola-Wrestling together. This time, Itai was gathering a group for our next in plans - Huayhuash trek.
There were already enough people in the group, they all seemed nice, and they were perfectly leaving the next day. The only problem was the agency they picked - I heard only bad things about.
10 Israelis, 1 Czech (AKA Martin), 1 guide (AKA Jesus), 1 assistant (AKA Moises), 1 cook/harriero, 2 horses for 8 days in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Oh well, how bad could it be?
Day 1, Thursday, September 9
Ready on time, we found out a delay in Peru (as usual) is constant and sure as loosing in the lottery. Our good luck continued with a dead van (engine got sick and tired of Israelis, who wouldn't?). So there we all were, eating bread with Avocado & waiting for a miracle to happen. The miracle took us all the way to our campsite - for only 150 $oles.
Sunset was great, tents were up in no-time, and I even got a private tent with Paz! Yummy!
Day 2, Friday, September 10
The next morning we got up way to late (for my regular trekking hours - but I got used to it..), than took our time eating and packing. While in the end of the latter, Jesus thought it would be OK for him to start walking without the group (a thought that followed frequently every day). One hour later, the group had a gap of an hour & a half between the first and the last person.
Reaching the pass and seeing I have enough time, I took Gil with me and we climbed a nearby, more impressive, rocky peak. Climbing back down - we were frowned upon - "crazy" is the term I remember most people used.
Mid-way to the 2nd pass of the day, we ate lunch. Near the second pass, I reunited with Itai (who was brave and strong and got to the 1st pass first as well!), we thought again about how much time we would have to wait until all the group arrived, and so decided to see the area around. The detour was amazing. We got better views of valleys and glaciers. Trying to return back to the pass, it was getting late; So we walked a bit faster and found the trail just as it got dark.
Having a head-torch we were not too worried, but a bit curious to why we haven't seen the guide searching for us?
Closer to camp, we saw lights spread around the area. Turning on my torch we found the worried searchers. Jesus, Moises & the cook were not included in the search. Apparently - Jesus thought we're crazy to go alone, and so we were not worth searching for - it's not his problem! The kind Israelis were worried and so searched alone.
Day 3, Saturday, September 11
New morning, new day. It took only 15 minutes before we couldn't find Itai & Gil. Jesus didn't even realize they were missing until I told him so. Turns out there was a junction 100m out of camp Itai & Gil missed easily.
Later on, same day, coffee break. Itai points at a direction and offers me to join his climb. Once the target is reached the only thing we could think of is why, in god's name, didn't Jesus bring us here? We shouted for the others to join us - they did not regret standing in the most beautiful viewpoint of the 8 days. It took us about half an hour more to take all the possible pictures from the spot.
The view from this day's pass wasn't satisfying enough for Itai & I, and so the adventure continues - we searched for better viewpoints on the ridge.
Day 4, Sunday, September 12
The day starts with a long and easy ascent. Jesus said that we will all just meet up in the camp for lunch. Itai & I were the fastest all day (even though we did take our time). We found ourselves climbing small peaks & ridges just for a slightly better view of the surrounding mountains. Later on we passed by the most amazing lagoon (number one of this trek anyways...), it was a warm day and entering was obligatory.
The camp of day 4 was near hot-springs. We all took a long bath with Mr.Rum by our side. Exiting the baths late, it was cold. We all hung our cloths to dry during the night just to find them in the morning raped with ice (a very beautiful sight).
Day 5, Monday, September 13
Waking up, I felt fine, mid-way up the pass I felt as sick as a dead dog. Without any other option - I mounted a horse. 10 minutes up I found Omry feeling even worse and so gave up my horse. Climbing with the help of my tired legs I also passed Shani (did I forget to mention? She was sick as well...).
After falling asleep on the pass, I was woken up by Moises. Descending, I passed sick-Paz. Lunch was "served" at the end of the descent. Right after eating, Jesus asked: "who's climbing to San-Antonio?" Even though all knew it is a hard climb, only Paz & I conceded. Jesus accompanied us both to camp and left Moises to walk with the rest.
Day 6, Tuesday, September 14
Long story short:
Gil & Hilla spent the night on the mountain, in a snowstorm. Israelis (Paz, Omry & I were too sick..) and Moises were looking for them all night. In the morning, Feeling a lot better I volunteered to run to the nearest village to call the Israeli-embassy. Moises found me 2 hours later in the village and told me Gil & Hilla are fine and found their way down by their own.
Where was Jesus? He spent all night in the village with his family and got notice of the crisis only when I got to the Village.
Moises & I stayed at the village and waited for the rest of the group which arrived, tired & late.
Day 7, Wednesday, September 15
Paz, Shani & Hilla (the sickest), drove off with the investigation police that interviewed us right after breakfast. 7 of us, Israelis, remained.
Mid-day, the pass, Itai was shivering cold. I took the liberty of trying to warm him up. Coffee, clothes & rubbing his back helped but he still was feeling bad.
By the end of the day, Eliran & Hagai were not feeling so well. Spending the night besides Itai (thinking I'm already immunized, I was sick just 24 hours before), I woke up sickest of all.
Day 8, Thursday, September 16
The next day and a half passed slowly and with loads of sufferings. All were feeling bad and getting worse. 2 horses were not enough and sick people had to try and climb with unbearable pain and bathroom breaks.
Mesner (the owner of the company Enjoy-Huayhuash), met us an hour before the end. He gave some of us medicine and promised he will arrive to Huaraz on Monday and get everything fixed.
Back in Huaraz, I was too sick to fight, but all the rest did the best they could. Unlucky for us, the receptionist couldn't do anything but give us 20US$ each for that was what Mesner told her to do. We all decided not to take that money & return the next day to try again (with newly charged powers).
Here I would like to state Ishay, the greatest of friends, who tended me with my needs all through my sickness. Thank you very much!
The story continues...
The Agency was closed every day until Monday. By then, only Omry, Gil & I were left in Huaraz. Mesner was pissed (don't ask me why), we couldn't really talk without him shouting at us (weren't we the victims here?), So we returned to the hostel empty-handed.
After all, it's only money. At least all are well and healthy.
Tips for the Huayhuash:
- Choose an agency carefully. There are a lot of tour-operators in Huaraz, gather information and think a bit before putting your life in some one's hand.
- Detours. There are a lot of them. If walking something you like, keep a lookout for more viewpoints near the main trail.
- Do not register a tour through Enjoy-Huayhuash or any guy named Mesner. Re-opening agencies with different names is common in Peru.
Showing posts with label La Paz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label La Paz. Show all posts
Friday, 12 November 2010
Sunday, 1 August 2010
The Bolivian Side of Lago Titicaca
After returning from the Rio Pirita trek, I had only 3 more days before my family’s arrival. Even if I had the powers to do something (I was very tired after the last trek), I didn’t have the time. So I just rested, walked around the markets I already fell in love with, and watched lots of World-Cup football (soccer). I met Iliya again, and we had a beer together. Dror hasn’t returned yet from Rurenabace. I already found a place for my family near the main market streets.
24.6.10, 18:00PM, Arriving to the airport (located in El-Alto), I found out the flight schedule was delayed by on hour. Arriving one hour earlier (for the first timing), I now had two hours to waste in a very small airport, and 4 month anxious to see my family (especially you, mom!). The meeting went well, surprisingly without tears… and we drove safely back to La Paz.
First time for my family over 3000masl, we planed 2 resting days, to see how everybody feels. Good thing we did, because some of us didn’t like the heights that much. We bought some warm jackets for the rest of the trip and some souvenirs (which is funny because my family always buys them on the last week, to avoid the weight) in the markets of La Paz.
27.6.10. We all leave La Paz (myself after almost 3 weeks), and are on our way to Copa…Copacabana! The bus takes us through the amazing Altiplano, so flat, yet so high! Snowy mountains surround it from the South-East (Cordillerra-Real), the Peruvian mountains from the North-West and Lago Titicaca in the middle. 60 minutes after leaving La Paz, and on the shores of Lago Titicaca, the bus stops. There’s a canal and we all must cross it on boats (The bus on a very small ferry, and the passengers on regular boats).
Copacabana is a small touristic town, with very little things to do. We decide not to stay and continue strait on towards Isla Del Sol (The Island of the Sun). Two hours more on a boat and we were on Isla del Sol. Yumani is the southern town on the island, getting off the boat, people were approaching us with tickets and announcing that everybody must pay (5$B) in order to enter the island. We, and everyone else, didn’t. Once on shore, groups of children started offering us deals for hostels, we locate an empty spot on the grass, leave our stuff and I (the only Spanish speaking person) start checking our options.
My mother (Orly) & Inbal (sister), were not feeling so good (Titicaca is 3800masl), and so we decided to take the closest hostel we could find. Hostel JJacha Inti is just above the marine. We asked for 2 rooms of 3, and got one triple & one room with a bed and 2 mattresses on the floor. We agreed and said it was fine as long as they would bring bed sheets for the mattresses. We were also offered to eat at the hostel, and so we did.
Not so satisfied with our dinner (way too expensive, way too small), we asked again for the sheets for the unmade mattresses, we got an offer for another double room instead (making it three rooms) of the mattresses. We agreed (where were we to go now?). We didn’t want anyone sleeping alone, and so we carried the mattress of the lonely room into the double room (on the floor). The double room had no bathroom (but was charged the same).
The next morning we got to see a beautiful sunrise over the Cordillerra-Real & Lago Titicaca. We left our stuff in the rooms, and went with purpose of getting as fast as we can to the north side of the island. No ‘’public’’ boats leave northward early in the morning (first one leaves at 10:00AM, and its an hour’s sail). Unwillingly, we had no option but to take the ‘’private’’ (and expansive) boat. Lots of boats (and tourists) were going to Copacabana though…
In wide difference from the southern shore of the island, the north shore is flat, has sand, and you could cross the small town of ‘Challapampa’ without forgetting what’s it like with oxygen in your lungs. As we start walking (after a small breakfast), we cross next to the museum and a strange person stops us rudely.
10$B please - he says in Spanish.
Why? – We ask in Hebrew.
To enter the Museum and archeological sites – he answers in his language.
We understand the deal and walk away. He then tries running after us, but understands eventually that he is loosing his next ‘’costumers’’. Being harassed already by three different people on the way (for the same payment), we decide to pay and get it over with (that happened to be the last ‘road-block’).
Inbal doesn’t feel so good with the heights, and she and my mother decide to return to Yumani, without the pleasure of climbing across the island. Only the boys left now. We finish our way up the coast to see the remains, and start our way up the island’s main ‘’mountain’’. The views and the walk are both breathtaking. We go slow, and manage to enjoy it all. The trail seems ancient, but is very comfortable to walk on.
10$B please - he says in Spanish.
Why? – We ask in Hebrew.
To enter the Museum and archeological sites – he answers in his language.
We understand the deal and walk away. He then tries running after us, but understands eventually that he is loosing his next ‘’costumers’’. Being harassed already by three different people on the way (for the same payment), we decide to pay and get it over with (that happened to be the last ‘road-block’).
Inbal doesn’t feel so good with the heights, and she and my mother decide to return to Yumani, without the pleasure of climbing across the island. Only the boys left now. We finish our way up the coast to see the remains, and start our way up the island’s main ‘’mountain’’. The views and the walk are both breathtaking. We go slow, and manage to enjoy it all. The trail seems ancient, but is very comfortable to walk on.
When approaching Yumani, we see a ‘gate’, made of two poles and a sign stretched between them. The sign gladly explains that we have to pay 5$B to pass into Yumani. 2 large ‘Cholas’ block the way and are happy to collect. All the other tourists make some noises, but eventually pay up. I walk first (of the four of us), answer ‘No, Gracias’ pleasantly, and pass though them – with an angry face, they leave us all alone.
Arriving back to the hostel, we found out that our third ‘unused’ room (the one with the bathroom though…), was given, without consulting us, to a group of Americans (who were promised sheets as well…). Angry (we wanted the bathroom, and the agreement was that it is ours), we went to eat dinner somewhere else. Watching from the restaurant, we saw the owner of our hostel offering the same room to an elderly looking tourist. Later that evening, the Americans and the elder were fighting over that same room.
The next morning, we woke up, early again, with intentions of leaving these bloodsucking islanders behind us. This morning, the dock was empty. We had to hire a ‘private’ boat service, again.
From that day on, Isla Del Sol was named ‘Isla del SHOD’ (robbery in Hebrew). And Yumani shall be called ‘Your-Money’.
We decided to leave Copacabana the same day as well, and for that matter, Bolivia in general. In the Bolivian side of the border they charged me 40$B for ‘overstaying’ 2 days in their country (my family got 90 days on their visa and stayed a week, I was there 32 days, but had clearance for 30). What can I say, Bolivians do know how to say goodbye.
Tips for the Bolivian Side of Lago Titicaca:
- The Peruvian side is better.
- The Peruvian side is better.If you do stay a night on Isla Del Sol, stay away from JJacha Inti hostel.
- The Peruvian side is better.
- The Peruvian side is better.If you do stay a night on Isla Del Sol, stay away from JJacha Inti hostel.
Monday, 26 July 2010
Rio Pirita – A Very Wet Trek
The second option was a 5 day wet canyon trek in Rio Pirita. And the two more were Noam (a lonely Israeli girl worshiping Shaul) and Alexa (a 19 year old British girl, trusting an Israeli who recommended Shaul to her back in her hostel).
We set to meet back at Shaul’s the next morning, 08:00AM, packed and ready to go. Back the next morning, I found out Noam convinced another Israeli to join. Asaf is 37 years old and just now found some time for his big trip in South America. Bolivia has its own time schedule, and we ended up leaving La Paz at 10:00AM. From La Paz we drove 6 hours by taxi to a town called ‘Caranavi’, then, 2 more hours (switching private taxis?!?) to the starting point.
After already driving an hour and a half on the second taxi, Asaf finds out that the rear storage door has jumped open during the drive. Stopping and counting the bags, we found out that Asaf’s bag is missing. All passengers & remaining bags dismount the taxi and the driver + our guide (Leonid, AKA Superman #1), drive back to town to find the missing bag. Waiting forever, we decide to make some ‘Nachle’ black coffee on the road. Asaf has a problem with it (not good enough for him), and I end up drinking it by my self.
After a long time (the bag was found back in town, a car driving by picked it up), we finally continue it the right direction. Although we were meant to walk a bit that day, we arrive too late to the dropping point, and just settle for the night.
The next morning we wake up to very tasty oatmeal made by Leonid (which turns out to be a good chef), and start walking on a jungle path down towards the stream bellow. Once down, we cross the river for the time (certainly not the last), and walk without equipment to a three stories waterfall splashing all over. Happy and amazed, we go for a swim (not knowing how much wetness awaits us).
Back with the bags, Leonid makes lunch (tasty again). We, by the mean time, re-pack our stuff inside large thick-rubber bags, to avoid the upcoming water. Leonid, after he had finished making lunch (never rests) ensures our bags are all secure, and raps them with blue Utah-bags as well (to avoid damage to the expensive bags). This routine is repeated every morning and after every lunch, until we finish the trek.
Starting to walk, at first you care if you’re dry or wet, but after 100 meters it doesn’t matter any more. We arrive to a pool crossing, high walls on both sides, and all we can do is swim through it. Leonid surprises us again by gently laying his pack in the water, and jumping right on it, using it as a small raft. We do the same (not as successful as Leonid, but still).
The next adventure is a high waterfall without the option to go around it. Leonid ties a very worrying rope to a big tree, and we all climb down from it.
Another worrying spot, but Leonid always has the answers. This time, a slippery looking slop, and we’re not sure how to pass it. Leonid signals us to wait. He, easily climbs up, ties the rope to a tree, climbs down without his bag takes Noam’s and climbs back up, Noam climbs very slowly after him. Same thing happens with the other bags (and with the rest of us). When I arrive to the top of the climb, I realize there’s another slop on the other side, and all the bags are already waiting down there.
The walls of the canyon are closing on us, making the views prettier and the water colder, each evening Leonid finds a dry spot next to the waters to make camp. He also makes breakfast, lunch and dinner, and lets us help just a bit. During the second day Alexa’s Utah bag tears and the polls for the tent fall off and in to the water, we recognize they are missing way too late, and from that evening Leonid builds a shelter as well (from scratch).
On the fourth day we leave our bags, in the bushes and go for a detour in a nearby smaller creek. We walk for about an hour and arrive to a black narrow canyon with cold (very cold) water rushing through slippery waterfalls. Leonid amazes us again being able to climb slippery waterfalls from the middle, then, once he’s up throws the rope back down and raises us up. The way down is a lot easier, and just as fun – we just jump down to the deep pools, or slide down the waterslides made by nature. This experience resembles the ‘Black Gorge’ in the ‘Zavitan’ river back in Israel, but think about doing it back and forth.
We got to the end of the canyon (the main one), and so the last day was just crossing the stream from one side to the other, until we got to the pickup bridge.
One of the things Shaul loves the most, is sending Muchileros for ‘expeditions’, this meaning you go and check out a place no one has ever been before. For us, he offered a tube ride downstream in another river close to the town of Caranavi. We had to wait about three hours for the guide sent from La Paz with the tubes and for the purpose of helping out Leonid during the two upcoming days.
Fernando, AKA Superman #2, arrived to Caranavi after nightfall. We drove in a taxi for about half an hour, and got off next to a different creek from the one we left earlier the same day. Leonid and Fernando went to search for a place to make camp.
In the morning, we went back to the drop off point to look for a place to fill up the tubes. Once filled up with air, Leonid and Fernando tied each bag to one tube, making it as comfortable as possible to sit on and float. All was good except for the fact that there weren’t so much water in the stream. We tried real hard but we just couldn’t float with the tubes, and ended up pulling them down the stream instead.
That night we slept by a nearby smaller river, which we checked out shortly before sunset. The second day of the expedition was a half day, due to the fact that we understood pretty fast that the difference between enjoying the tube ride & getting hurt really badly is very close. If you succeed on gliding through a waterfall – it’s really fun & nit, but if you don’t – it hurts really badly, and it can very easily be dangerous.
Good thing we asked to stop at midday, because even so, we got back to La Paz in 03:00AM. Shaul was very nice, and let us stay for the night at his place.
We set to meet back at Shaul’s the next morning, 08:00AM, packed and ready to go. Back the next morning, I found out Noam convinced another Israeli to join. Asaf is 37 years old and just now found some time for his big trip in South America. Bolivia has its own time schedule, and we ended up leaving La Paz at 10:00AM. From La Paz we drove 6 hours by taxi to a town called ‘Caranavi’, then, 2 more hours (switching private taxis?!?) to the starting point.
After already driving an hour and a half on the second taxi, Asaf finds out that the rear storage door has jumped open during the drive. Stopping and counting the bags, we found out that Asaf’s bag is missing. All passengers & remaining bags dismount the taxi and the driver + our guide (Leonid, AKA Superman #1), drive back to town to find the missing bag. Waiting forever, we decide to make some ‘Nachle’ black coffee on the road. Asaf has a problem with it (not good enough for him), and I end up drinking it by my self.
After a long time (the bag was found back in town, a car driving by picked it up), we finally continue it the right direction. Although we were meant to walk a bit that day, we arrive too late to the dropping point, and just settle for the night.
The next morning we wake up to very tasty oatmeal made by Leonid (which turns out to be a good chef), and start walking on a jungle path down towards the stream bellow. Once down, we cross the river for the time (certainly not the last), and walk without equipment to a three stories waterfall splashing all over. Happy and amazed, we go for a swim (not knowing how much wetness awaits us).
Back with the bags, Leonid makes lunch (tasty again). We, by the mean time, re-pack our stuff inside large thick-rubber bags, to avoid the upcoming water. Leonid, after he had finished making lunch (never rests) ensures our bags are all secure, and raps them with blue Utah-bags as well (to avoid damage to the expensive bags). This routine is repeated every morning and after every lunch, until we finish the trek.
Starting to walk, at first you care if you’re dry or wet, but after 100 meters it doesn’t matter any more. We arrive to a pool crossing, high walls on both sides, and all we can do is swim through it. Leonid surprises us again by gently laying his pack in the water, and jumping right on it, using it as a small raft. We do the same (not as successful as Leonid, but still).
The next adventure is a high waterfall without the option to go around it. Leonid ties a very worrying rope to a big tree, and we all climb down from it.
Another worrying spot, but Leonid always has the answers. This time, a slippery looking slop, and we’re not sure how to pass it. Leonid signals us to wait. He, easily climbs up, ties the rope to a tree, climbs down without his bag takes Noam’s and climbs back up, Noam climbs very slowly after him. Same thing happens with the other bags (and with the rest of us). When I arrive to the top of the climb, I realize there’s another slop on the other side, and all the bags are already waiting down there.
The walls of the canyon are closing on us, making the views prettier and the water colder, each evening Leonid finds a dry spot next to the waters to make camp. He also makes breakfast, lunch and dinner, and lets us help just a bit. During the second day Alexa’s Utah bag tears and the polls for the tent fall off and in to the water, we recognize they are missing way too late, and from that evening Leonid builds a shelter as well (from scratch).
On the fourth day we leave our bags, in the bushes and go for a detour in a nearby smaller creek. We walk for about an hour and arrive to a black narrow canyon with cold (very cold) water rushing through slippery waterfalls. Leonid amazes us again being able to climb slippery waterfalls from the middle, then, once he’s up throws the rope back down and raises us up. The way down is a lot easier, and just as fun – we just jump down to the deep pools, or slide down the waterslides made by nature. This experience resembles the ‘Black Gorge’ in the ‘Zavitan’ river back in Israel, but think about doing it back and forth.
We got to the end of the canyon (the main one), and so the last day was just crossing the stream from one side to the other, until we got to the pickup bridge.
One of the things Shaul loves the most, is sending Muchileros for ‘expeditions’, this meaning you go and check out a place no one has ever been before. For us, he offered a tube ride downstream in another river close to the town of Caranavi. We had to wait about three hours for the guide sent from La Paz with the tubes and for the purpose of helping out Leonid during the two upcoming days.
Fernando, AKA Superman #2, arrived to Caranavi after nightfall. We drove in a taxi for about half an hour, and got off next to a different creek from the one we left earlier the same day. Leonid and Fernando went to search for a place to make camp.
In the morning, we went back to the drop off point to look for a place to fill up the tubes. Once filled up with air, Leonid and Fernando tied each bag to one tube, making it as comfortable as possible to sit on and float. All was good except for the fact that there weren’t so much water in the stream. We tried real hard but we just couldn’t float with the tubes, and ended up pulling them down the stream instead.
That night we slept by a nearby smaller river, which we checked out shortly before sunset. The second day of the expedition was a half day, due to the fact that we understood pretty fast that the difference between enjoying the tube ride & getting hurt really badly is very close. If you succeed on gliding through a waterfall – it’s really fun & nit, but if you don’t – it hurts really badly, and it can very easily be dangerous.
Good thing we asked to stop at midday, because even so, we got back to La Paz in 03:00AM. Shaul was very nice, and let us stay for the night at his place.
Tips for Rio Pirita:
- If you like to do things your way, get in touch with Shaul. See if something catches your eye on his website, or just ring the door bell with his name on it on Tarija street, La Paz (look for an A4 sign on a second floor window, Shaul’s name is written in Hebrew).
- Leonid was a very good guide. Knows just Spanish, but other than that, he’s perfect. Good cook, knows the way, and will do anything to satisfy your needs. Say hi for me.
- The trek itself was really pretty. The only downside was that I couldn’t take as much photos as I wanted – water problem. If you’re not into water, this trek is not for you.
- If you like to do things your way, get in touch with Shaul. See if something catches your eye on his website, or just ring the door bell with his name on it on Tarija street, La Paz (look for an A4 sign on a second floor window, Shaul’s name is written in Hebrew).
- Leonid was a very good guide. Knows just Spanish, but other than that, he’s perfect. Good cook, knows the way, and will do anything to satisfy your needs. Say hi for me.
- The trek itself was really pretty. The only downside was that I couldn’t take as much photos as I wanted – water problem. If you’re not into water, this trek is not for you.
La Paz and its Surroundings
I arrived to La Paz after another typical, long bus ride in Bolivia that could have been shorter if the Bolivians would just get of their lazy asses and build some better roads.
La Paz is my favorite big city yet. For a person who loves markets, that’s the place you want to be. It’s not that I’m so fond of the buying and selling fanaticism, I actually hate buying stuff (especially for myself), it’s just the whole idea of walking in streets (in Spanish ‘calles’) or allies, wide or narrow, all of them filled with local treasures. Some streets are categorized to ‘vegetables’, ‘meat’, ‘local cloths’, ‘witchcraft’, ‘mixed areas’, ‘ tourists’…ext. Most of my ‘free-time’ (I’m on vacation, so that sounds funny…) hours in La Paz were just wasted on walking and ‘loosing’ (I always carry a map) my way through the allies and market strolls.
After figuring out what’s with this crazy city, I finally (took us two days…) manage to reunite with Dror & Alek (this after an aggressive act on my side, joining their room in their hostel). We caught up over dinner at the Israeli-like restaurant called ‘Nargila’ (ok Humus served with awful bread-like Pita). They already went to the 2 one day tours around La Paz and recommended them for me. They added that they want to wait two days anyways for doing some shopping and waiting for two other girls. We agreed to go together (two days from that day) for the Death Road down hill ride, and after that to try and arrange the Huayna-Potosi climb.
La Paz is my favorite big city yet. For a person who loves markets, that’s the place you want to be. It’s not that I’m so fond of the buying and selling fanaticism, I actually hate buying stuff (especially for myself), it’s just the whole idea of walking in streets (in Spanish ‘calles’) or allies, wide or narrow, all of them filled with local treasures. Some streets are categorized to ‘vegetables’, ‘meat’, ‘local cloths’, ‘witchcraft’, ‘mixed areas’, ‘ tourists’…ext. Most of my ‘free-time’ (I’m on vacation, so that sounds funny…) hours in La Paz were just wasted on walking and ‘loosing’ (I always carry a map) my way through the allies and market strolls.
After figuring out what’s with this crazy city, I finally (took us two days…) manage to reunite with Dror & Alek (this after an aggressive act on my side, joining their room in their hostel). We caught up over dinner at the Israeli-like restaurant called ‘Nargila’ (ok Humus served with awful bread-like Pita). They already went to the 2 one day tours around La Paz and recommended them for me. They added that they want to wait two days anyways for doing some shopping and waiting for two other girls. We agreed to go together (two days from that day) for the Death Road down hill ride, and after that to try and arrange the Huayna-Potosi climb.
Tiawanaku tour – Bolivia’s Machu Picchu:
A long time ago, in a far high land, existed an ancient culture called Tiawanaku on the South eastern side of Lake Titicaca. The Bolivians are still grateful for that. Without that culture they would not have as much tourists in their country nor would they have pictures of the remains to put on every wall of their large amount of tourist companies. Other than that, Tiawanaku itself isn’t that amazing. It’s older than the Inca times, and has many similar building aspects (large rocks, sun god, Condor, Puma, Snake…). Many impressive pillars are located in the main temple. Also in the main temple is the famous ‘Sun-Gate’, it was almost taken by the Spaniards, but luckily was left because of its weight (20 tons). Most of the interesting remains are located and shown only within the museum walls, where you’re not allowed to take photos (as you can see right here).
A long time ago, in a far high land, existed an ancient culture called Tiawanaku on the South eastern side of Lake Titicaca. The Bolivians are still grateful for that. Without that culture they would not have as much tourists in their country nor would they have pictures of the remains to put on every wall of their large amount of tourist companies. Other than that, Tiawanaku itself isn’t that amazing. It’s older than the Inca times, and has many similar building aspects (large rocks, sun god, Condor, Puma, Snake…). Many impressive pillars are located in the main temple. Also in the main temple is the famous ‘Sun-Gate’, it was almost taken by the Spaniards, but luckily was left because of its weight (20 tons). Most of the interesting remains are located and shown only within the museum walls, where you’re not allowed to take photos (as you can see right here).
Chacaltaya & Valle de la Luna (The Moon Valley):
I have no idea how those two places were related, Chacaltaya on the North side of the city & the Moon Valley on the South, but they’re still offered together in every agency in town.
Chacaltaya is a nice pick (5400masl), that watches over the whole city of La Paz, El-Alto, and the picks surrounding the valley of La Paz (Huayna-Potosi, Condoriri, Illimani, Sajama), and in a good day even Lake Titicaca.
It is also a nice way to checkout if your fit enough to climb to challenging Huayna-Potosi (6088masl). The bus takes you almost to the top. When first looking at the top, I thought I could get to it in about 10 minutes tops. Rushing up (way too fast…), I got tired after a 10m climb, couldn’t breath, and had to sit down. The rest was taken much slowly. Chacaltaya has 3 picks, all more or less in the same height, walking slowly I eventually climbed them all. The views were certainly worth it!
From the Chacaltaya, we drove back to La Paz, crossed it all the way from North to South, on our way to see the Moon Valley, a touristic park of geological sand/rock forms. It reminded me of the southern coast of the Dead Sea back in Israel. I also saw another Viscacha, this time from a closer point of view.
I have no idea how those two places were related, Chacaltaya on the North side of the city & the Moon Valley on the South, but they’re still offered together in every agency in town.
Chacaltaya is a nice pick (5400masl), that watches over the whole city of La Paz, El-Alto, and the picks surrounding the valley of La Paz (Huayna-Potosi, Condoriri, Illimani, Sajama), and in a good day even Lake Titicaca.
It is also a nice way to checkout if your fit enough to climb to challenging Huayna-Potosi (6088masl). The bus takes you almost to the top. When first looking at the top, I thought I could get to it in about 10 minutes tops. Rushing up (way too fast…), I got tired after a 10m climb, couldn’t breath, and had to sit down. The rest was taken much slowly. Chacaltaya has 3 picks, all more or less in the same height, walking slowly I eventually climbed them all. The views were certainly worth it!
From the Chacaltaya, we drove back to La Paz, crossed it all the way from North to South, on our way to see the Moon Valley, a touristic park of geological sand/rock forms. It reminded me of the southern coast of the Dead Sea back in Israel. I also saw another Viscacha, this time from a closer point of view.
The Chola-wrestling:
Every Sunday all tourists (who know about it), go up towards the Chola-wrestling arena. It’s located near the main market of El-Alto, the high city ‘sitting’ on top of La Paz.
The fights are all staged, just like on WWF on TV, but this time it’s with locals, women & men alike, fighting each other with the strangest costumes ever (women are dressed in traditional clothing).
Alek, Dror and I went to check what all the fuss is about. It’s a good laugh, but mainly a gimmick. We got the idea after 2 hours, and went back down to the city.
Every Sunday all tourists (who know about it), go up towards the Chola-wrestling arena. It’s located near the main market of El-Alto, the high city ‘sitting’ on top of La Paz.
The fights are all staged, just like on WWF on TV, but this time it’s with locals, women & men alike, fighting each other with the strangest costumes ever (women are dressed in traditional clothing).
Alek, Dror and I went to check what all the fuss is about. It’s a good laugh, but mainly a gimmick. We got the idea after 2 hours, and went back down to the city.
The Death Road (The Most Dangerous Tourist Scam in La Paz):
The plan is simple, take a legend, and spice it up a bit. Let some Americans go first, and brag around the city about how dangerous the road is, and there you have it!
Everybody wants a go. Bolivia is the cheapest country in South America, but this specific tour, was not. Dror, Alek & I bargained much, but still didn’t want to end up with shitty bikes (everybody heard horror stories about Bolivian agencies). 400$B was the last price for the middle class agency.
The tour starts way up at 4000masl, the goal is 1200masl. All agencies do the same route. They first take you to an asphalt road (very good structure), and there you check how you’re feeling with your new bike & gear. The views are very nice, but you’re still not on the famous road you wanted. The ride is very fast (you decide), and fun. After descending about 1000m, all climb back to the vans, and drive to the dangerous dirt road.
At first it seems fine, but after one curve, you see what makes it so famous. On the cliffs from both sides of the road dense tropical rain forest is growing all over. On your right, the cliff is going up into the clouds. On your left, a 600m fall. The road is in the exact width of one car. The vans that took us all the way here are following us, and I feel concerned about the crazy drivers agreeing to drive this narrow road every day of the week. As for bicycles, you have enough room for 3 driving next to each other, but only a crazy person would ride fast and close to the edge. Once you get the hang of it, and trust your breaks, you should be fine.
The road (for a bike) is not as dangerous as told. It has pretty landscapes all around, and if you know how to ride a bike & you’ve got the time and money – it’s worth it. Just don’t try shooting a video while you’re riding the bike – you could end up killing yourself.
The plan is simple, take a legend, and spice it up a bit. Let some Americans go first, and brag around the city about how dangerous the road is, and there you have it!
Everybody wants a go. Bolivia is the cheapest country in South America, but this specific tour, was not. Dror, Alek & I bargained much, but still didn’t want to end up with shitty bikes (everybody heard horror stories about Bolivian agencies). 400$B was the last price for the middle class agency.
The tour starts way up at 4000masl, the goal is 1200masl. All agencies do the same route. They first take you to an asphalt road (very good structure), and there you check how you’re feeling with your new bike & gear. The views are very nice, but you’re still not on the famous road you wanted. The ride is very fast (you decide), and fun. After descending about 1000m, all climb back to the vans, and drive to the dangerous dirt road.
At first it seems fine, but after one curve, you see what makes it so famous. On the cliffs from both sides of the road dense tropical rain forest is growing all over. On your right, the cliff is going up into the clouds. On your left, a 600m fall. The road is in the exact width of one car. The vans that took us all the way here are following us, and I feel concerned about the crazy drivers agreeing to drive this narrow road every day of the week. As for bicycles, you have enough room for 3 driving next to each other, but only a crazy person would ride fast and close to the edge. Once you get the hang of it, and trust your breaks, you should be fine.
The road (for a bike) is not as dangerous as told. It has pretty landscapes all around, and if you know how to ride a bike & you’ve got the time and money – it’s worth it. Just don’t try shooting a video while you’re riding the bike – you could end up killing yourself.
Back in La Paz:
Alek & Dror heard about a crazy Israeli living in La Paz, running an agency and helping out people (Israelis or not), to go on treks off the bitten track. His name is Shaul.
Dror goes to check it out, and comes with a new idea of joining a raft organized by Shaul, leaving in two days. The main idea is to build it on the first day and sail with it 5 more days down stream. To me it sounds interesting, but Alek had a new offer and decides to cut his South America trip short. The next time we go all together (Alek with no intention of joining the ‘trek’). All the people wanting to go on the Rio Verde adventure were invited to a meeting in Shaul’s house. After a week with only 2 people interested, Shaul’s living-room is filled with 12 people. Shaul explains that there is no room for all the people on the boat and the last people joining would have to give it up. Luckily (for Dror), 3 people (including me) prefer the second option offered by Shaul, and leave 9 people to go on the raft in Rio Verde.
Alek & Dror part their ways, and I leave them both myself.
Alek & Dror heard about a crazy Israeli living in La Paz, running an agency and helping out people (Israelis or not), to go on treks off the bitten track. His name is Shaul.
Dror goes to check it out, and comes with a new idea of joining a raft organized by Shaul, leaving in two days. The main idea is to build it on the first day and sail with it 5 more days down stream. To me it sounds interesting, but Alek had a new offer and decides to cut his South America trip short. The next time we go all together (Alek with no intention of joining the ‘trek’). All the people wanting to go on the Rio Verde adventure were invited to a meeting in Shaul’s house. After a week with only 2 people interested, Shaul’s living-room is filled with 12 people. Shaul explains that there is no room for all the people on the boat and the last people joining would have to give it up. Luckily (for Dror), 3 people (including me) prefer the second option offered by Shaul, and leave 9 people to go on the raft in Rio Verde.
Alek & Dror part their ways, and I leave them both myself.
Tips for La Paz:
- Tiawanaku is nice, but only if you haven’t been to the Machu Picchu yet.
- Chacaltaya is a nice climb (if you haven’t done the Huayna-Potosi yet), and the Moon Valley has beautiful formations.
- The Death Road isn’t that dangerous, and if you know how to ride a bike, go for it.
- Shaul is very useful, if you want to find cheap guides for treks off the bitten track, if you want information about treks you can do by yourselves, or even just for trading reading books.
- Tiawanaku is nice, but only if you haven’t been to the Machu Picchu yet.
- Chacaltaya is a nice climb (if you haven’t done the Huayna-Potosi yet), and the Moon Valley has beautiful formations.
- The Death Road isn’t that dangerous, and if you know how to ride a bike, go for it.
- Shaul is very useful, if you want to find cheap guides for treks off the bitten track, if you want information about treks you can do by yourselves, or even just for trading reading books.
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