Arriving early to Chachapoyas, I had time to search & pick a cheap hostel. During the search and almost giving up on the prices - Dennis attacks me from behind.
Dennis who?
Well, Dennis is a German who insisted on following me around Ecuador for about two weeks. Not so nice a person, and so I hope I meet him again soon.
Not thinking twice, I joined Dennis at his hostel and met Niels (not the one with the geese), Dennis' friend from home.
Later on, we (Dennis, Niels & I) regrouped with the Australian couple from the last Post (Dennis - could you help me with the names?) and set a tour for the next day to see the Kuèlap remains.
Kuèlap:
Three hours away from Chachapoyas (which is far away from the world as is), lie the Kuèlap remains. Kuèlap is most famous for it's more than 400 round buildings. It also has a 20 meter high defense wall. The Incas had to siege the city, and it was one of the hardest cultures for them to conquer. A few years later, the Kuèlaps joined forces with the Spanish ''gods'' and helped them beat the Incas.
The remains are impressive. Standing outside of the huge wall, you feel like defeat. The entrances are narrow & steep which makes it harder to enter for the armed Inca soldier (sounds familiar?). Inside the city, circular buildings stretch as far as the eye could see...not really, but there are quite enough. Each building was used by a family as a house. Within each building there's a hole - that was used as a family tomb.
The Kuèlaps used only 3 kinds of decorations named after their 3 gods - Puma-eyes, Cayman-eyes & the Snake. There is also only one open window in one house (out of all of the houses), all the rest are shut and were used as shelves.
Due to the fact that I was in recovery of a three day diarrhea, I told you the storyline of Kuèlap and not of how I felt there.
Catarata Gocta - The 3rd-Highest Waterfall in The World?
Morning after Kuèlap, Dennis & Niels had planed to see Catarata-Gota. I didn't really want to, but my bus was due to leave only in the evening. Dennis got up with a really bad stomach and decided to stay in the hostel where he could sleep and run to the WC whenever he felt like it. I took the chance, and went for some quality time with Niels.
Speeding again, in a private taxi, we got to the small village next to the high waterfall. 4 years ago, in the year of 2006, a German guy discovered and measured the beautiful waterfall and since then - the Chachapoyanes tried to populate the site. The people of the small village seem like they're not sure what the fuss is all about. Taking a guide is included when paying entrance to the park. Even though the path is as clear as glass, the guide told me there are snakes and dangerous animals, and he's there with a radio so help would come (we really tried to see some snakes, they were all on holiday). He was also a good story-teller. Through him I learned about the life of the guides working in the park (too many guides - not enough tourists), and his life off guide-duty (mainly agriculture). Niels got some translations from me, but was a bit frustrated that he couldn't understand the stories first-hand.
About 2 hours of walking, we arrived underneath the waterfall. From far away, it seemed as though some thing's wrong with the picture. The waterfall was not as impressive as the ads. showed! I want my money back! Someone stopped providing water for the waterfall, and the view was a bit sad. Even though there was not enough water from above, the pool was full enough to teach a German what you do when you arrive to a water source.
Washed and happy, we walked our way back to the village. The guide assured us that if we come in the wet season - the waterfall would be amazing and rushing with water. I believe him.
Later on, I checked the stats on the high waterfall - according to Wikipedia it's the 16th highest waterfall in the world, not the 3rd. Friends, beware of Peruvian advertisement.
Saying my goodbyes again to Dennis (this time with Niels in the way - we couldn't have our crazy goodbye-sex) & Chachapoyas, I was alone on my way to Huaraz.
Tips for Chachapoyas:
- If you made it all this way, there's enough to see. Kuèlap, Gocta (in the wet season) & the Sarcophagus.
- Kuèlap is very impressive. If there was a touristic center in Chachapoyas, and it would have been more reachable, I would recommend it as much as the Machu Picchu. The architecture is more impressive by far.
- Catarata Gocta was a bit disappointing, I wouldn't travel all the way to Chachapoyas for it, but it is a nice walk if you're already here.
Showing posts with label Dennis. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dennis. Show all posts
Sunday, 31 October 2010
Thursday, 30 September 2010
Ecuador
Saying farewell to my dear family, I was on the ``alone`` road again.
My time in Ecuador went by very fast, and so this post would probably sound as a run-through, even though each day was a regular one (just a bit closer to the equator).Guayaquil to Quito:
Buying a bus ticket in Ecuador is quite funny, all fair prices are set by the hour of the ride.The bus ride from Guayaquil to Quito is said to be an 8 hour ride - and so, one would pay 8$US for it. Before doing so, I checked the bus, and was happy to find out that it has a toilet - good news! After 4 hours on the bus, I really needed to pee. Trying to accomplish my goal, I found out the toilet was locked (electronically! in Ecuador!), and so went to ask the driver`s assistant if I could, please, use the toilet. No (he replies). The toilet is just for the ladies. Next absurd request was that he would stop the bus so I could quickly empty my waters. Lucky you (he says), we`re just about to stop! Andean style, we stopped only an hour later, and still I had to beg in order for the bus to wait for me those 2 minutes. FYI, the bus ride itself was 11 hours, and not 8.
Quito:
In one word ``scary``. In another ``horrifying``. I got to the capital at night and took a cab to a hostel I checked out on the web. The owner warned me non-stop, to not walk around alone after sunset. The streets of Quito, magically, empty totally from 18:00. Doors shut, windows close, and guns are fired. To complete the picture, I met a girl in my hostel that was robbed in broad daylight, in a main plaza, threatened by a knife! I chose to walk my day tour in Quito in mid-day, and with nothing on me - there for, no pictures - sorry. I also decided to run away from Quito as fast as I can.
Otavalo:
Just 2 hours (once you manage reaching the northern bus terminal of Quito) away from the Ecuadorian capital, lies Otavalo market. On an everyday basis, there`s a regular South-American touristic market in the main plaza. But on Saturday, all the streets around the same plaza become a market. Touristic & local together. Chickens and pigs are being sold, fruits and vegetables, weird local dishes and more! Do I have to explain what the touristic side looks like?
Volcan Pichincha:
Back in Quito (sadly), I met a German guy named Dennis in my hostel. We both heard together about climbing volcano Pichincha, and how close and easy it is. So we joined forces and went together the next day. Dennis & I had really good fun (no thanks to the clouds who just did not move from the pick, there for - we were climbing in the middle of the clouds), and connected really good. Dennis then agreed to follow me to my next stop - the Quilotoa Loop.
Quilotoa Loop:
Knowing we both haven`t got the time to walk all the way around (like one should!), we shortened our way and took a bus strait to the village of Quilotoa. The famous lake is located inside a crater, an awesome view (from top or from inside).
We saw the crater the day we arrived to the village, and were attempting to walk our way to the village of Chugchilan the following day. We asked for directions from a couple arriving to the village that same day from Chugchilan.
After walking all day on the dirt-road between the villages, we understood that we got pretty bad directions (there`s a walking trail somewhere...). The views were still spectacular, and we got to meet some very good ``finger`` photographers on the way.
Arriving early to Chugchilan, we just didn`t have the power to leave the hostel (once finding one...), and we just read our books until dinner. In our hostel, we met two Quito friends of Dennis, a Dutch couple (in their late 40`s?), They were both really good story tellers, and had lots of around the world adventures to tell about.
The next morning, we took a ride on the milk truck (the only morning ``public-transportation``). This was a unique experience for all tourists (an Irish & 2 Australians were also on the truck) riding it! The milk-men would pick-up buckets of fresh milk from locals waiting on the road, and give them back milk for their usage (apparently processed). The milk truck took us to a bigger and less remote village, where we could wait for a bus to the big town of Latacunga.
Baños:
The touristic town of Baños is the smallest noisy town you could find. It is a vacation town for Ecuadorians, who happened to have a holiday just on the same weekend we were there.
The bible said the bike ride is nice, and so we rented bikes and rode down hill towards Puyo.
Dennis doesn`t really know how to ride a bike - and so he almost got himself killed.
Turns out - it`s a waterfall route! Every 500 meters or so, there was a cable-car, crossing to the other side of the river, and closer to the waterfalls.
Locals were going crazy! Back and forth on the cables!
We decided to check what all the fuss was about, and crossed to see a very high and impressive waterfall from up close. When trying to reach the pool underneath it, we were asked to pay another 50 cents. We refused. Instead, we found a trail leading up above the waterfall. It was a nice short walk, but then we were asked to pay another 50 cents to see the top of the waterfall from up close - guess what?
The way back from the top of the waterfall was free, and we just walked on the road back to our bikes.
The second entrance we payed for, was the highlight of the waterfalls! Pailon del Diablo is an amazing contrast between the black rock and the white water rushing though it. The face of the devil shows in the rocks - giving the place it`s name.
Our second day in Baños was passed by a short walk to ``Bellavista`` (the beautiful-view), it wasn`t.
From Baños, I continued alone. Dennis drove back to Quito to pick up Niels (his German friend) from the airport.
Riobamba:
Never believe French people - that`s what I always say. Well, this time they were speaking the truth. The train from Riobamba was closed.
Parque Nacional Cajas:
Heard about it by mistake, from Eshel (my friend in Israel). The best way to describe this wonderful park would be ``a high Patagonia``. Covered with green marshes, interesting hidden lakes appear behind each hill. small creatures & flowers are spread, shy to the strange person walking around looking for them. Last ans most important - I haven`t met a human being ever since stepping into the park in the morning and until leaving it, early afternoon.
Vilcabamba (The Sacred Valley):
Located in the perfect location on earth, the villagers of this quiet town are proud of living in the only place in earth were climate doesn`t change all year round! I got here late at night (with mud from Cajas still on my shoes), and took a day off just to relax in this wondrous place. Somehow, it was still vacation time in Ecuador - and locals were everywhere! Unlike Baños, in Vilcabamba you don`t feel the load of people`s presents.
The next day I went up Cerro Mandango (the sleeping god) with Cora from Ireland, I met on the bus from Loja to Vilcabamba. The mountain actually cliffs of ``conglomerate`` and from it we could see the whole valley beneath us. On the way down we tried finding our way through the dangerous ridges - adventure!
On my last day in Vilcabamba I took a horse ride into National Park Podocarpus. I fell in love with my energetic horse ``Media-Noche`` (mid-night), who liked nothing but running!
Goodbye Ecuador, hello Peru.
Tips for Ecuador:
- Quito - If you, like me, don`t like big cities. You wouldn`t like Quito. Just try and stay away from it.
- PN Cajas - One of my favorite places in Ecuador. Don`t miss its wonders. If you`re going, arrive before it opens (07:30), and you`ll save the 10$US entrance fee.
- Vilcabamba - Renè from La Tasca Tours is a very nice & informative person who would love to help. He also owns the best horses in town.
Back in Quito (sadly), I met a German guy named Dennis in my hostel. We both heard together about climbing volcano Pichincha, and how close and easy it is. So we joined forces and went together the next day. Dennis & I had really good fun (no thanks to the clouds who just did not move from the pick, there for - we were climbing in the middle of the clouds), and connected really good. Dennis then agreed to follow me to my next stop - the Quilotoa Loop.
Quilotoa Loop:
Knowing we both haven`t got the time to walk all the way around (like one should!), we shortened our way and took a bus strait to the village of Quilotoa. The famous lake is located inside a crater, an awesome view (from top or from inside).
We saw the crater the day we arrived to the village, and were attempting to walk our way to the village of Chugchilan the following day. We asked for directions from a couple arriving to the village that same day from Chugchilan.
After walking all day on the dirt-road between the villages, we understood that we got pretty bad directions (there`s a walking trail somewhere...). The views were still spectacular, and we got to meet some very good ``finger`` photographers on the way.
Arriving early to Chugchilan, we just didn`t have the power to leave the hostel (once finding one...), and we just read our books until dinner. In our hostel, we met two Quito friends of Dennis, a Dutch couple (in their late 40`s?), They were both really good story tellers, and had lots of around the world adventures to tell about.
The next morning, we took a ride on the milk truck (the only morning ``public-transportation``). This was a unique experience for all tourists (an Irish & 2 Australians were also on the truck) riding it! The milk-men would pick-up buckets of fresh milk from locals waiting on the road, and give them back milk for their usage (apparently processed). The milk truck took us to a bigger and less remote village, where we could wait for a bus to the big town of Latacunga.
Baños:
The touristic town of Baños is the smallest noisy town you could find. It is a vacation town for Ecuadorians, who happened to have a holiday just on the same weekend we were there.
The bible said the bike ride is nice, and so we rented bikes and rode down hill towards Puyo.
Dennis doesn`t really know how to ride a bike - and so he almost got himself killed.
Turns out - it`s a waterfall route! Every 500 meters or so, there was a cable-car, crossing to the other side of the river, and closer to the waterfalls.
Locals were going crazy! Back and forth on the cables!
We decided to check what all the fuss was about, and crossed to see a very high and impressive waterfall from up close. When trying to reach the pool underneath it, we were asked to pay another 50 cents. We refused. Instead, we found a trail leading up above the waterfall. It was a nice short walk, but then we were asked to pay another 50 cents to see the top of the waterfall from up close - guess what?
The way back from the top of the waterfall was free, and we just walked on the road back to our bikes.
The second entrance we payed for, was the highlight of the waterfalls! Pailon del Diablo is an amazing contrast between the black rock and the white water rushing though it. The face of the devil shows in the rocks - giving the place it`s name.
Our second day in Baños was passed by a short walk to ``Bellavista`` (the beautiful-view), it wasn`t.
From Baños, I continued alone. Dennis drove back to Quito to pick up Niels (his German friend) from the airport.
Riobamba:
Never believe French people - that`s what I always say. Well, this time they were speaking the truth. The train from Riobamba was closed.
Parque Nacional Cajas:
Heard about it by mistake, from Eshel (my friend in Israel). The best way to describe this wonderful park would be ``a high Patagonia``. Covered with green marshes, interesting hidden lakes appear behind each hill. small creatures & flowers are spread, shy to the strange person walking around looking for them. Last ans most important - I haven`t met a human being ever since stepping into the park in the morning and until leaving it, early afternoon.
Vilcabamba (The Sacred Valley):
Located in the perfect location on earth, the villagers of this quiet town are proud of living in the only place in earth were climate doesn`t change all year round! I got here late at night (with mud from Cajas still on my shoes), and took a day off just to relax in this wondrous place. Somehow, it was still vacation time in Ecuador - and locals were everywhere! Unlike Baños, in Vilcabamba you don`t feel the load of people`s presents.
The next day I went up Cerro Mandango (the sleeping god) with Cora from Ireland, I met on the bus from Loja to Vilcabamba. The mountain actually cliffs of ``conglomerate`` and from it we could see the whole valley beneath us. On the way down we tried finding our way through the dangerous ridges - adventure!
On my last day in Vilcabamba I took a horse ride into National Park Podocarpus. I fell in love with my energetic horse ``Media-Noche`` (mid-night), who liked nothing but running!
Goodbye Ecuador, hello Peru.
Tips for Ecuador:
- Quito - If you, like me, don`t like big cities. You wouldn`t like Quito. Just try and stay away from it.
- PN Cajas - One of my favorite places in Ecuador. Don`t miss its wonders. If you`re going, arrive before it opens (07:30), and you`ll save the 10$US entrance fee.
- Vilcabamba - Renè from La Tasca Tours is a very nice & informative person who would love to help. He also owns the best horses in town.
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