The Peruvian Side of Lago Titicaca

Peru, the fifth country in my trip (Argentina, Chile, Brazil, and Bolivia so far…), welcomes us in Puno. Puno is the Peruvian tourist gateway to Lago Titicaca. On the bus from Copacabana, Bolivia, we meet Edgar, a nice agent that ended up helping us with everything we wanted in the Puno area + the hostel we ended up sleeping at in Cuzco.

Edgar led us to a nice & small hostel called La Casa Del Abuelo (Grandpa’s House), it was close to the center, and we enjoyed both the center & the hostel very much. Searching for a place to eat, we found a small pizzeria, named ‘Pizza Andina’, where they make your pizza right in front of you in a small stove. The streets of Puno are so cold, and the warmth of the restaurant was just perfect. The pizzas were served on a really thin base, and with loads of toppings to our choice.

The next morning we went on a 2 day tour around the islands on the Peruvian side of Lago Titicaca. The tour starts on the Floating Islands; these Islands are specially built by local Indians from floating mud, straws and ropes. On top of the hand-made platforms, they build their houses, kitchens & there’s even a fish pool. We had explanations about how the islands were built, and what people do and eat. We also got a chance to ride a traditional Indian boat made of only straw. These boats have an expiration date of up to three months. Today, the main income of the Floating Islands is tourism, but as touristic as they get, they’re still very special.

Next stop of the tour was Isla Amantani, a ‘none touristic’ island (then how come we go there?), where we were introduced to our hosting families whom served us lunch (mainly different varieties of potatoes), and showed us our rooms for the night. In the afternoon we met again with the rest of the group, and went on a walk on the island – to see the Pachetata (Father Earth) temple. Because of height problems, we made it to the temple only in time to witness the sunset. The temple itself is opened for the people only one day a year, finding a hole in the wall we managed to see the big phallus sculptured in the middle of the temple. Climbed down, ate dinner with the hosting family (mainly potatoes), and slept in our small beds (people of the Andes are really short). In the morning we ate a pancake for breakfast (that’s right, just one…).

The last stop of the tour was Isla Taquile, a touristic island (most of the tours go through it), where all of the people wear traditional clothing and are known for their excellence in knitting. All the people are very colorful. On the island we also had lunch (which wasn’t included in the trip); the guide takes you up the island, between the houses, and enters the restaurant. He then asks everyone to sit and hear his explanation about the clothing on the island, just when he finishes (after 3-5 plates with good smells fly by…), he asks who wants to stay and eat there. The prices were fine, so we stayed, but the pressure feasting was not a nice memory.

Back in Puno, we ordered a hostel in Cuzco through Edgar, and went to eat again in Pizza Andina.

Tips for The Peruvian Side of Lago Titicaca:

- The tour we took (The Floating Islands, Isla Amantani & Isla Taquile) was really short but satisfying. We got to see three different places in just 2 days.

- Pizza Andina was certainly a success. You’ll find it on Libertad Street (before it changes to Melgar).

- La Casa Del Abuelo (Jr. Tarapacá 399 y Libertad, Tel. (051) - 363465), is a nice place close to the center. With good beds, hot showers, and nice owners.

- Edgar is a real treasure. Contact him for any help or information (Edgar Cuno Adaza, cell 951-643678, or in La Casa Del Abuelo hostel), and say hi from the Boxerman family.

Iguazu Falls - "If I have seen further, it is by standing on the shoulders of giants."

The Argentinian Side:
Caught the first bus to the park. Thinking I`ll have enough time to see it all just in one long day. The gate was still closed, and me & 6 more early wakers had to wait 15 minutes for it to open. During those 15 minutes 3 buses stopped by the entrance unloading 100 more tourists. Good thing we were first in line.
Decided to see the main attraction first (while its still empty), The Devil`s Throat, But the train was leaving just 15 minutes later and that was the only way to get to the Throat. Knowing that, I went first to a small nature trail called ''The Green Trail''. It was silent & empty, both from animals & people. On the other side of the trail was the second stop of the train (first been the entrance), I still had to wait there, 15 more minutes. The train got to the station already filled up. I managed to find a free sit, and waited patiently for my first glance of what was to be the greatest WOW yet in my long, scenery changing, trip.
Dismounted the train and made my way through the crowd (lot of crowd). Doing everything I can to pass everyone politely. It was a long trail, and only the strong survived, and after 15 minutes of fast walk & fast photo shooting (`cause everything was so pretty!), WoW. Endless amounts of water rushing (impolitely), shoving, banging, falling into a 300 degrees hole about 60 meters high (but you couldn`t really see the bottom), and I was standing on a balcony, on the edge.
All of that, but the sun was in front, and we (the camera & I) couldn`t see clear enough - we`ll return in the evening for a better photo shootout.
Walking back to the train I spotted a gang of vultures sitting on a near by deck, and all of the people (though they clearly noticed them), don`t stop for even a second. But they kept on sitting there - posing beautifully only for me.
After another train ride (this time empty), I got off to see the other lesser waterfalls of the park. A long trail, going down, through the woods. The tumulting waterfalls are heard from afar. The people passing by are covered with raincoats, disposable or not, to seal themselves from the wonderful drops of nature. As you could have guessed I didn`t put mine on.
The first waterfall visible was one you have to get wet from. And if your crazy - you walk slowly. I did. Got some good pictures while doing so.
Every viewpoint have the option to get close to the waterfalls, or get even closer. The 'Splashzone' became my favorite. I was with my 'fastdrying' trekking cloths but they didn`t get a chance to show me what their made of.
I didn`t take the boat (that everybody takes) to see the waterfalls from up close. I was wet enough with out it.
The lower balcony Is made to take you under all the waterfalls. The upper balcony goes above the mighty nature. I stood on top of the great stream, not understanding where all this amount of water comes from (if I would have, I would solve Israel`s water problem).
After having fun with strange looking Raccoons, I took a risk (of timetables) and went to see the smallest waterfall in the park (Macuco trail). The aim was to see some wildlife. I so some Monkey`s far away on the treetops, and caught a glimpse of a few birds, but the most exciting animal I met was a HUGE spider, swinging just above the heads of the people passing on the trail. I myself, noticed it only on my way back from the waterfall (that was as high as the white waterfall, Zavitan river, Israel. and was nothing compered to the outstanding waterfall 800 meters from it).
Coming back from Macuco trail, I climbed once again to the train (the last one going that direction). Ran all the way to the waterfalls (the sun, in Argentina, doesn`t wait for anyone). and got to witness the great powers of The Devil`s Throat once again.

The Brazilian Side:
Woke up in Argentina with a goal to be on a bus to Campo Grande, Brazil by the end of the day. Passing through the Argentinian border, getting stamped (with all the other passengers). The Brazilian side was different. The driver of the bus pointed at me, ''Gringo'' he says, I did not understand why just me, but still I was left there (just for the 30 seconds of the stamping process), and had to wait for the next bus (20 minutes). Knowing what a crazy day awaits me, I climbed the first bus driving through the station (having to pay again because it wasn`t the same company).
I had to find a place for my luggage in the Foz Do Iguacu bus terminal, and took the next bus to the Brazilian Park. When buying the entrance ticket, I was asked where I am from, and while entering, the man tearing my ticket read it, and welcomed me in my own language.
Being on the Brazilian side is a whole different experience. you get to see all the falls at once from a panoramic view point. Still, people were sealing themselves from the waters of nature with disposable raincoats. Again, I didn`t.
Got very wet and got out (the Brazilian side is shorter).

Parque Das Aves (The Bird Park) is located 50 meters from the main entrance to the Falls park. The cost is 25 Reals, but it absolutely worth it. You start of from the less impressive bird cages, with little options to catch a good picture of them, because the bars are in the way. Then you get to the 'open to the humans' cages. You are all surrounded by birds from every shape and size - Storks, Ibis, Parrots, Hawks & Tucans - which are vicious.
Zeologicly speaking, there are enough birds just in Brazil. Still, for some reason there were also birds from Africa (ones which I already saw during my trip in Tanzania). Anacondas, Alligators, Monkeys and Turtles welcomed me as well.

It was a wonderful experience for a bird lover. I got a huge V on seeing lots of species, before even visiting the Pantanal or the Amazons.



Tips for the Iguazu:
1. Visit both sides - If you got the time (just two days are enough) and money. Each park shows you a unique side of the falls.
2. Visit the Bird Park on the Brazilian side. Its just heaven for the eyes.
3. I heard Israelis shoudn`t stay on the Brazilian side (Foz do Iguacu) - I managed to see some Arabic signs, and terror groups posters, so maybe the rumors are true.

Còrdoba

Waking up.
Not too sure where the hell I am, but this time, Its not a brief stop. I`m guessing we`re in Còrdoba. Shocked, I put on my shoes (it`s not allowed to take of your shoes in buses around Argentina), check again that I didn`t forget any thing on the bus and climb down (the bus is 2 stories high).
Just of the bus, and I recognise a short lady, looking at me and testing my moves. I do the same. Then a two sided smile, the unneeded question ''Lily?'', ''si, Bèbe said you`d look like Jesus''.
Lily and Tito`s House is a warm and welcoming one. The walls are filled with memories. Ether family pictures from all around the world, or souvenirs completing the picture. They even have all of their spoons collection hanged up, dad! ;-)
Lily shown me to my room, and we went out for a night tour around the city.
Còrdoba`s main plaza is all lite. The view of all the main buildings surrounding it is so beautiful. Music was playing in the main square of the plaza, and so we got closer. couples were dancing Tango to the sound of the music and the moon light.
After the tour, we went to eat at the restaurant* partly owned by the fiance of Vero (Veronica, Lily & Tito`s Daughter). Had good Empanadas, and a new dish (for me) called Locro. It reminded me of a Jewish dish called Jamin/Chulnt - it was great. In the restaurant I was introduced to Batia. A nice 25 years old Israeli waitress, studying Physiotherapy in Còrdoba and wanting to go home very badly. The Idea was that she would translate for me. BUT I UNDERSTAND SPANISH!
After a good sleep, I woke up to a Sunday. Lily said she and I could go around town with the car. She showed me around and finished the tour in a restaurant* (all you can weigh buffet), with all of Tito`s relatives. They loved me so much, after a long lunch, we went out for coffee* (Lily, Tito`s nephew, his girlfriend & I). After the nice coffee, Lily and I went to see Nache. (had another coffee* with him. After saying goodbye to Nache, Lily drove by Vero`s house, she happened to be outside, and we went inside her apartment, this time for a glass of water. It was very nice to meet new family members and see that it doesn`t matter if met already or not, we are all Menis.
The next morning I took a 2 hour bus ride to the town called Villa General Belgrano. It`s a nice Touristic, German town close to the mountains of Còrdoba. From there I took another bus to La Cumbrecita. Another Touristic town, Swiss, but this time Inside the mountains. I just had to find my way through the houses, and I was next to a beautiful untouched Laguna. Going back to town, and out again, and I was facing a waterfall. In & out again, and I was on the mountains above the town. I had so much fun, I was just pissed of at the ''Unusefull'' (AKA my Lonely Planet) for not saying anything about this places.
For a very late lunch (there were no Empanadas in Villa General Belgrano), I ate a Cazuela de Ciervo (deer stew). Wow, that`s all.
Along ride back, and I was back just in time to say thanks for the lovely dinner Lily cooked (I don`t know how it all got in to my belly)
Another day, and this time, to the north countryside of Còrdoba. La Cumbre is a nice, quite little town just on the mountainside of the Andes. I could not find the right trail, so I improvised. I went up to see the Christ on the hill. went back down. and returned to Còrdoba.
It was a great trip, but would have been better with more time.
Slept another night with the family, Thanking A LOT, and took a bus the next day to Puerto Iguazu.

*I was not allowed to pay.


Tips For Còrdoba:
1. Sleep with family - Its cheep, and mine just happened to be nice.
2. La Cumbrecita - Plan time for it, there are a lot more places to see, I didn`t have the time.
3. La Cumbre - See La Cumbrecita.

Moises Ville, A Family Detour

Looking at the map of Argentina, checking were I am. According to the time schedule of the bus, and the rough turn to the left, its 10 more minutes to my grandmother´s town Moises Ville.
Staring outside the windows, sure to find some sort of clue to what was here 70 years ago, but its night time, and dark outside, I can´t see anything but bike riders ridding on the road.
Stepping of the bus, already smiled from seeing the known name of ´Habaron Hirsch´ on a street sign, I knew I was in the right place, and not because I saw any better, but just because my heart started pounding inside my chest, and tears started emerging. Just before the first teardrop, I managed to ask a nice local girl if she knew where ´25 de Mayo´ street is (the address of Bebe, cousin of my grandmother, still living in Moises Ville).
Walking towards Bebe´s house, emotions flying all over, I saw ´Banco Comercial Israelita´ my second sign of the past.
Found the house. After knocking and ringing the bell, twice.. behind me appears a dark figure, answering to the wanted name.
Not thinking about anything but ´Finaly, I´m home.´ all that came up to mind, was to give Bebe a big hug. After seeing his surprised face, I didn´t do it again.
Bebe left me alone in the house (offered me Asado with his friends, but my head was full of thoughts, and my stomach wasn´t hungry). I asked politely to use his computer, and rushed to write a message back home.
The next morning, it took time before I believed where I was. Bebe did not let me do anything around the house. Made me coffee, we ate breakfast, and went out for a tour a round the town.
The sun was shining, showing me the beautiful people nodding their heads for a local ´hola´, to me or Bebe, or maybe the both of us. some stopping to ask who´s the new face. Not rude of course, in a small town like Moises Ville (1,500 per.), you would expect everybody to know each other. Some of the greeters where Hebrew speakers, and were thrilled to practice their Hebrew with me.
The first stop was Escuela Fiscal, the school in which my grandmother, Nejama (Anita) Menis, learned. More than 80 years have past since she started her studies, and the school is still active. The entrance was familiar, but that was that. lots of curious children watched over the corner of the walls to see the unknown visitor. Entering a classroom, I felt it was THE class room. Sitting on a chair in that classroom, I knew it was THE chair. I felt her presence with every step I took. The chairs, blackboards, doors, windows, a piano in the main hall, nothing has changed. children in the year 2010, are still learning in the same school my grandmother learned in. The school was built with the foundation of the village, so it must be 120 years old.
In the school´s backyard, still stands a very big tree. One which Bebe pointed to and said ´sacar un foto´ (take a picture). I did. I later heard from my mother (on the phone) that the tree was the one my grandmother used to climb on with her friends and family.
We continued our tour. Watching the buildings of the past. Synagogues, The Library, The Theater - yes, a theater. There where once 6,000 people in this village, all Jews, and Jews like their cultural activities.
Another building was the Jewish Theacher´s Seminar, now the Jewish school (with less then 10 students, all ages). In that same building, my grandmother got her teaching diploma. We kindly entered and asked to see, and photograph the 4 students attending.
Later that day, Bebe introduced me to ´Bat-Sheva´, a local tourist guide, who speaks Hebrew. She has the keys to all the public buildings, and to the cemetery.
First, to the tombs of my ancestors. A long list, mapping the graveyard, directed us strait to my relatives. Tuvia Menis (Father of my grandmother) and Heniya Menis (her sister, who died at the age of 13).
We returned to the village (the cemetery is 3 km from it), and entered the rest of the public buildings. In the library we met a former student of Leha (my grandmother´s sister, who was last to move to Israel and was an active teacher in the Seminar). The Theater is now a meeting hall, where the villagers celebrate graduations, and screen movies. Bat-Sheva said the Jewish community (now 300 people), celebrate Pesach here. Last stop on my guided tour was the Moises Ville Museo. I learnt a lot from the Hebrew speaking manager of the museum.
The next day Bebe showed me the Menis house, were my grandmother grew up. We went again to the cemetery, to see Monky´s grave (Manuel Menis, brother of Bebe), which we coudn´t find the day before.



During my stay in Moises Ville, I read the book ´A Pigeon and a Boy´ by Meir Shalev. It was the perfect one for the job. It is all in first person, writing to his mother, who died not so far ago, and now he is alone, making her wish for him, come true.

Buenos Aires, Capital of Tango, and Paris of South America!

Don't know shit about dancing, and haven't been to Paris, but I thought to try Buenos Aires out anyhow.
The next day (still in Bariloche remember?), I got on a bus to BA. I was promised a 21 hours ride, and right away, I knew I would surely love a Cama sit on the way.
driving around South America, you always have to make a decision:
Semi-Cama - the regular bus sit in any other bus in the world (that slightly shifts back words).
Cama - more space for your tushy, and the back of the chair shifts back up to 45 degrees.
Cama-Suite - space for the tushy, and a hole 180 degrees bed if you want.
Not all the buses and all the companies have all the options. And sometimes the prices jump way up from each different option to the other.
Choosing the Cama option, I knew I would manage to get some sleep on the bus, and that way save a day once getting to BA.
The center of each town I've been to, until now, was the place with all the interests, all the Internet stores, restaurants, mini markets, ext...With BA, It's different. people come here to 'go out', and the places to do that, are located in 2 particular neighborhoods: Palermo & San-Telmo.
Not knowing that, I picked out the most centered (cheapest), Hostel I could find from the Lonely-Planet book I've got.
The place was great, good people, good atmosphere, good guests at the time, good breakfast. Far away from all the night action.
On my arrival day I set of to a center tour. got to know the great 'Florida' street, always occupied with endless population, not really knowing were to go next...(them, not me)
Day 2: ''you've got to see the Recoleta cemetery'' says everybody. To Recoleta we go. If it wasn't Evita's Birthday, it wouldn't be as exciting... but it was better than I thought it would be. Big Fu#@% tombs, of very important/rich Argentinian persons.
Went around the rest of Recoleta, the big buildings (with live people inside) are much more exciting then the tombs.
After Recoleta, I thought seeing a bit of nature would be good for me, and walked my way to the National Park. A dry and flat area on the shores of the 'La Plata' river, meant for just one reason - so that city people could have a cheap (its free) way to go running, bike riding, and make out, with out the risk of getting hit by a car in the process. I tried to get out of there as fast as I can...
Day 3: Palermo! The neighborhood of the rich. Took the Subte, a fun and claustrophobic experience, from the land of the streetrats, and to the land of pure fashon, dogs, and pretty women (usually all together). Seeing the difference between the neighbohoods is amazing, here they have a Botanic Garden, a Japanese Garden, a Zoo, a Rose Garden and lots of other Gardens I didn't have the legs to see... It was Saturday, which means everybody was out. skating, bike riding, and taking the kids to the local zoo. Understanding I already saw most of the animals either in Tanzania last year, or I'll see them in the upcoming year in the wild! mixed with the fact that I haven't heard anything about this small zoo, and the 'round the corner' line of screaming children. Thanks, but I'll pass.
Walking away from the zoo's entrance, my eye's caught an enormous amount of people standing at the other side of the street. Searching the map, I couldn't find any zoo explanation for it... and crossed the street to check it out. Turns out it was the local 'book fair' (יום הספר ) and as I approached, I saw that they were not gathered around, but stood in a long line. following that line (to check out the books!), I found out that it's at least 3 blocks long! At that point I got back to the Subte station, and gave up.
Or, as a greater singer said:
בפלרמו,עיר הקיץ הקסומה,
יש קטלוג תנופת בנייה גדולה!
תיקח את עצמך מכאן,
ותיקח את עצמך מכאן עכשיו,
ולך לישון!
Day 4: As I should have guest, Oren & Liliya showed up. It was Sunday, and I wanted to go to the San-Telmo Market, But they said I should wait for them. And being a good friend, I did. And lucky for me this time... we started by going to Plaza de Mayo (second time for me) to see the great Plaza and the 'Pink House' (the celebrity house from which Madona, Played by Evita, sang to the screaming crowed of her last rock concert, but I'm not sure, so ask someone who cares...). as we were taking pictures, when I say we I mean Oren, two guards where walking in to the big pink think. and they had the strangest tale of people behind them. following and running to shot the great pics, we found ourselves standing in line for a tour around the house.
From the house, to the market! And my first 'wow' in BA! Endless colorful (Oren.liliya told me) market stands, fill with hats, paintings, antiques, clothing and whatnot! all the way from Plaza de Mayo and into Boca (the next neighbourhood). I almost bought a hat.
From San-Telmo, we continued our way into scary Boca. The poverty neighbourhood of BA and the one with the most respect full football (soccer) team in Argentina, Boca Juniors. Sunday, a match! crowd going wild on the streets, singing buses rush by... and Liliya wants to get closer to the 'booms' noises we keep on hearing. The important part is, we made it out of there alive.
Day 5: First Half off the day was a lovely regrouping with Gabi & Achia! then we said our goodbyes and decided to go out at night. Don't go out on a Monday night in BA, we'll leave it at that.
Day 6: Trying to find myself a new pair of boots, no success. walking up and down the Florida street I listened to great street bands playing wonderful jazz, Went Climbing with Liliya, a nice place, just 15 pesos per day of climbing, far away, and we had to rush back to make it to the Tango Show!
A smaller place then shown on the fliers, a loud man with a loud voice, sang very loud. the dancers were great (look up the beginning of this post), and a very strange Indian (well at least he was dressed up as one) thought no one would mind if he would act as though he is playing the playback. The greatest thing about the show, were the orchestra players, they were really worth it all.
The next morning, I took the next bus, to the next stop...The village where my grandmother was born and raised - Moises Ville..



Tips for Buenos Aires:
1. Going out - I didn't, probably because of my hostel's location. if your into going out more then I am, find a place in Palermo or San-Telmo
2. The San-Telmo Market - Go on a Sunday, don't miss it.
3. Tango Shows - you can skip that part. or just see it on the sunday market in San-Telmo

The Argentinian Lake District

Where were we? yeah, right, in Pucon.
Driving the road from Chile to Argentina, one notices the great difference between the Chilian Andes and the Argentinian ones. same for the Parallel Lake Districts.
Being so close apart, only a mountain-side away, the Argentinian lake district is just not the same:
I'll start off, from the border crossing. Next to the Argentinian checkpoint, stands Vulcan Lanin, with all its pride. 3,747 meters above sea level, and only 900 meters taller then the already known Villarrica, but goddamn, can it showoff! the great view we had, made me decide I can skip coming back here and rush all the way (still with Oren.Liliya) to San Martin de Los Andes.
San Martin de Los Andes, welcomed us with opened arms, being empty (without Israelis), and quiet (without Israelis).
Now having the time for it, I booked a tour guided van, going to the Seven Lakes for the next day (the main reason was of course getting rid of Oren.Liliya!).
The tour was supposed to take me around the Argentinian Lake District, seeing, as you might have guessed, 7 lakes. (I counted 6)
There was a very pleasant fellow guiding the tour. Very young, yet with very much knowledge. All in Spanish.
The microphone volume was set way to loud, but nobody except me seamed to notice. maybe speeches you don't understand are more annoying...
We drove in a rainy day, and couldn't see everything I wanted to see, stopped just on planned stops (not in the other magnificent places I saw through the windows). When we did stop, it was for short breaks in Miradors (lookouts), and everyone else did not understand why I was running ans rushing around (to take the best photos I can of course).
At mid day (just as the sun got out of the clouds finally) the van stopped at Villa la Angostura. A beautiful little town, touristic, on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and with nothing to do there for the 2 hour break we took.
Once going back on the van, the sun hiding again, we rode the last hour of the drive, without stops, until we arrived to my beloved Bariloche.
That night, I said my goodbyes to the Lake Districts (both), with a large stake, at Parrilla Don Alberto.
The main Difference between The Argentinian and The Chilain Lake Districts will be the weather you fall upon. seeing lakes without sun is a shame. they usually have a mirror effect, which will not show on a cloudy day.
The scenery around the lakes, is where the change happens..
On the Chilian side, volcanoes and small towns (almost untouched by tourism), higher mountains and good sea food!
On the Argentinian side, lots of Chocolate, better roads, and great meat!
Except for that, try seeing them both with a rented car, so you could stop when, and where ever you like.
If I had ant other option but the Touristic van, I would take it. Not having a drivers licence or people to share a rented car with, made my decision for me.



Tips for the Argentinian Lake District:
1. Rent a Car - you'll good deals from Bariloche, and you can see, stop and make your own rute as you like it.
2. Restaurant 'La-Andina', Bariloche - Cheap, good food (Empanadas, Pizzas, Pastas), and good people.
3. Volcan Lanin - Seeing it on a good day, just worth all the drive. (Check the weather first, its a long drive)

Living in the Past

Next on my list is to update you all on what has happened in the last two months (it will be as short as possible - but keep in mind - this is a post summering two very intensive months):

some of the dates are approx. because I'm rushing it all from my memory. The future posts, my promise will be more accurate...

20.2.2010

Leaving Israel on a flight to São-Paulo, Brasil.

21.2.2010

From São-Paulo, Brasil to Ushuaia, Argentina, a short stop to switch planes, in Buenos-Aires.

22.2 - 1.3.2010 - Ushuaia

First three days where a shock! But after seeing the ''National Park Triera del Fuego'' and meeting the great people in ''The Jewish House'', I got the hang of it and went for a two days trek to ''Passo de Oveja'' (the pass of the sheep).

One more week, trying to find companions for a longer trek (''Sierra Valdevicio''), walking along the shore, celebrating ''Purim'' in the Jewish house, and trying to find a hitch to porto williams and the dientes circuit.

Tip for Ushuaia:

1. Hospedaje - The cheapest place to stay in Ushuaia. It is run by a nice & hyperactive lady and her drunk ¿husband?. You'll find it on the corner of 'Roca' & 'Deloqui' streets.

2. The Jewish House - In my time the couple running it were just great... Maybe it´s worth it to check who's there when you get there.

3. Whiskey! Its just so cheap here!

2-10.3.2010 - A Gateway into Chile! Punta Arenas.

A too long, 15 hours, bus ride to Punta Arenas.

Meeting Shachar (a.k.a chachachr) and Michael in the hostel ''Roxana'', the Israeli couple showed me around, and told me where to do the Penguin ride (which was fun, but with not much penguins to see - at the end of their season).

Also in the hostel, meeting Stewart, a pipe playing Scotsman, with whom I've done the Cruz de los Mares trek with.

After the 5 day (exhausting) trek, I continued on to Puerto Natales.

Tips for Punta Arenas:

1. If you like going through freezing rivers do the Cruz de los Mares trek. If not, DON'T!

12-22.3.2010 - Puerto Natales & The great Torres Del Paine

After meeting Oren Sochoy & Lilya on the bus to Puerto Natales, started the gathering of information for my first ''long'' trek - the 7-8 days Torres del Paine circuit.

First ''tenador libre'' (all you can eat) at juan's hostel (5,000 $ch).

Finding Iliya, Boaz & Lior to walk with me in the trek.

Eating with Oren & Lilya Menu del Dia (meal of the day) in different restaurants...

and we're off!

The first two days I've done with Iliya, Boaz & Lior. After that I've gone off alone and with very interesting and fun people from all over the world:

Marcus, Germany.

Tristan, CA, USA.

Scott, NZ.

And much more with whom I spent less time and so don't remember all their names.

Tips for Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales:

1. In Torres del Paine - do the Circuit. It´s worth it! Silent, with animals, and the view of the Glacier Grey from the top of the Passo John Gardner is just AMAZING!

2. In Puerto Natales - Don't eat at Carlitos. My hamburger wasn't fresh. I was sick for 3 days.

3. Hostel Esmeralda. With a nice breakfast, for a nice price and in the center.

23.3.2010 - El Calafate & the Perito Moreno

Just 2 days (rushing to make it to the Fitz Roy), were enough to see the great glacier Perito Moreno. It is told by everyone that this is the most beautiful glacier of all... but I am sorry to say, that I found glacier Grey of the Torres del Paine much more exciting.

I've done the glacier with Iliya, which I met by accident.

Also met Til, the greatest German Shepard ever! he camped with me for 2 nights in El Calafate, and joined the short yet good celebration of Iliya's birthday.

Tips for El Calafate & the Perito Moreno:

1. I saw the Glacier Grey good enough, so the Perito Moreno wasn't such a big deal for me. If it was me again, I would consider not going. It's expensive, and if you saw the Grey in a good day, and don't have the money, its OK to skip it.

25.3.2010 - El Chalten & The Fitz Roy

The very small village of El Chalten, is considered by the Argentinians as ''the capital of trekking'' even though, the only major trek in the area is the 5-6 days (going slow) trek, to the Fitz Roy and the even more impressive Cerro Torre.

Before going of for the 2 day trek, I've Made planes with Oren & Lilya to rent a car together for the Caratera Austral, so they have gone off to Bariloche to rent the car, and I was planing on going on the 29th (my birthday) to the forsaken town called Perito Moreno...

That's why, on the night of the 28th (telling myself that its already my birthday in Israel anyways), I went to eat a very large and good stake at a local restaurant. Of course, who comes in, if not, Iliya! we celebrated my birthday together with lots of alcohol & popcorn at a local brewery.

Tips for the Fitz Roy:

1. See the Fitz Roy at sunrise!

2. See the Cerro Torre.

3. Bring enough money and food to El Chalten. There is just one ATM, and everything is expensive.

30.3.2010 - Ghostown Perito Moreno

Waiting for my pickup by Oren, Lilya & Gabi and Achia.

3.5 days I waited. During Santa Semana (Ester), which means everything is more closed than closed.

One Tip - STAY OUT OF THIS PLACE.

2-9.4.2010 - The Caratera Austral

Salvation! they all came, with a big pickup truck.

in the Caratera Austral we managed to do a lot! with a car you can cover a wide route just in few days:

The Marble Caves in Rio Tranquilo.

Horse ride in Cerro Castillo.

Puerto Chacabuco.

The Hanging Glacier.

Hot baths in El Amarillo.

The ruins (from volcanic dust) of the town Chaiten & the south part of Parque Pumalin.

Futalifue.

and lots and lots of views from lagoons, lakes, mountains and snow.

Tips for the Caratera Austral:

1. Know the people you rent a car with. A week is a long time. I was very lucky to be with great people.

2. Don't eat the Asado after the horse ride in Cerro Castillo. It sucks.

9.4.2010 - 'till now... Bariloche

Drove all the way (back, for some) to Bariloche (a.k.a almost Heaven).

When in Bariloche, you have to check out 3 things: the meat, the ice cream, and the endless amount of chocolate.

Done a bike ride around ''Circuito Chico''.

Waited 2 days for the weather to get better (and eating too much), then went off, alone again... to do the trek called Nauhal Huapi Traverse, which is supposed to be 5 days.

Rushing the first day and a half, I got to refugio Jakob where I was told it isn't a very good idea to continue on to the pass. Hearing that I felt the exhaustion from rushing all the way... and suddenly really wanted to finish off this trek. That night I slept in a warm bed again.

Tips for Bariloche:

1. The Traverse should be great, just come in the season. If you don't have the time, do a day hike just to Lagoon Frey & Lagoon Schmol.

2. Chocolate, Icecream & Meat.

NOW!

Still in Bariloche, for 4 days I haven't done much ('cause of bad weather again)... just been with everybody on skype, sent all the pictures from the last 2 months (hopping to erase my almost full memory cards), gone to Cerro Otto (a very good view point above the city of Bariloche), and planed my next moves regarding the last Chile part of my trip - The Lake District & Pucon.

And started a new Blog...hope you like it...

Hasta Luego,

Awad.