Islas Galàpagos

*Note: knowing the difficulty of writing this next post - I`ll try not to use the saying ``WOW`` too often.

Before flying to the wonderful islands, we had no choice but to stay one night in Guayaquil. Guayaquil in 2 words: Tel-Aviv, and in a bad way. It`s hot, humid, crowded, and the taxi drivers will take advantage of you. Lets not talk about this horrible place any more.

In order to enter the islands one must pass through strict nature preserving stages:
1. Scan your big-bag at the Guayaquil airport for any kind of organism.
2. Pay the 10$US entrance fee to I don`t know who...
3. The air-crew will spray your handbag on the plane to kill any other organisms.
4. Pay the 100$US entrance fee to the National Park.
5. If you plan on crossing between the islands alone - another inspection on every island.

Landing on Baltra island, the friendly-chubby looking guide awaits the group: 8 loud Italians, a couple from the Czech-Republic, and us (a loud 6 person Israeli family). 16 per. in total.
We all drove off to the closest pier where we got to meet our boat (Guantanamera) and crew. Waiting for the rubber-boat to transfer us we already got to see wildlife in action! Blue-Footed-Boobies dive arrow-like dives into the water, Brown-Pelicans scouting for pray on the dock & boats, and Magnificent-Frigates just hover around the sky waiting for the weaker birds to make a mistake and catch something.

First stop for the boat was Bachas Beach. A good start. The rubber boat landed us on a sandy beach, and not long past before we saw the big, black Marine-Iguanas. Lots of Crabs nest on the black rocks near the water as well. I say it`s good because you get to see bit by bit, and can get used to the fact that wildlife in the islands - is just not scared, and very up close.

South Plaza Island was an improvement! The best place to witness the great Land Iguanas. These creatures resemble small dinosaurs. they are up to a meter long and have a greenish color to their peeling away skin. Their favorite food is the huge Cacti (leaves, fruits, everything!) which they wonder around looking for all day. We also got to see colonies of Sea-Lions, cute and make you want to hug them. But what really caught our eye - was the exotic Red-Billed-Tropicbird, long tailed and just pretty.

Last stop of the day - Isla Santa-Fè. A sandy beach filled with Sea-Lions resting & cuddling welcome us into this paradise. Mocking-Birds, Lava-Lizards & the Galàpagos-Dove were the new animals we got to meet on this island. We even got to see Blue-Footed-Boobies - well, we thought it was up close just then...

At night, the boat would sail the long distances - So every morning we would wake up to a new scenery. Morning of day number 2 brought of to Isla Española. On this trip, the animals were all sitting & posing on the trail. making us (the tourists) circle around them, or try and not step on them - in the case of the Marine-Iguanas. These black creatures appeared in bigger and bigger groups each time, cuddling in order to maintain their body heat. The Blue-Footed-Boobies were dancing, the white Nazca-Boobies were flying all around, but then...we reached animal heaven.
The Waved-Albatrosses are AMAZING! At first we didn't know how much. They were just sitting there, nesting. Then we saw them walk around - and do their special mating dance (if it doesn`t fit - you`re not it!). And then - they flew! With a wingspan of 2.25 meters they just look like F-15s in the sky. They can`t really lift themselves up, so they always nest next to cliffs - that way they just have to jump. Amazing! or did I say that already??

The next day was not supposed to be anything special. Punta Cormorant, on Isla Floreana is a dead (without animals) beach, but what we witness was really unique. A female turtle, was late to return to sea - and was in the middle of digging her way out of her hole. All we had to do - was to wait for her to get out, and just watch the show.She was really scared of all the tourists waiting for her outside of her hole (almost circling her), she almost regretted ever coming out of her hole - but then took all the courage she could grasp - and ``ran`` her way back to sea. She was really slow on the sand, but once her body touched the water - she was gone.

The next stop of the day was also on Isla Floreana. Post-Office-Bay is know mostly for it`s weird tradition - There is a Postcard-Barrel on the beach, and ever since pirate times, people leave and pick-up post-cards & letters and have them delivered to their addresses. So we left our own - and took some as well (from Israel!). Apart from that - we went to see a Lava-Tunnel, and witnessed the football match tradition played by the crew members of the boats.

4th day, and we thought we saw everything. Santa Cruz island is the most populated one. Puerto-Ayora is the biggest ``city`` on the Galàpagos islands, and it`s the most touristic as well. probably 90% of the income of this town is tourism. Who can blame them?
On the Santa Cruz island is the famous Charles-Darwin-Research-Station, where people come to see the giant Land Tortoises, and the celebrity ``Lonesome George``. You can also take a tour deeper into the island and witness the giant tortoises in the ``wild`` (it`s still a preservation park).

After civilization, we got back to reality. Isla Rabida invites us back to nature with Cacti without spikes! No Land-Iguanas on this island made it possible for these strange trees to develope.
The Pinnacle on Isla Barthalome, leaves you breathless of the world`s creation. On Barthalome, we climbed a volcano, saw a smaller one from the top, lifted some very ``heavy`` rocks, and got to see where Darwin slept ;)

On an everyday basis, we would go on snorkeling dives. The water was cold, but there`s a whole other world underneath the waves. Sea-Lions would make you wonder who`s the tourist - as curios as a two year old, they would swim around us, getting near our faces with their mustaches and then swimming away. Chewing our yellow fins. Barthalome was the best dive for most of us. Dad & Inbal got to see a race between a penguin & a shark! Penguins swim like torpedoes in the water, and you get to see them just for a glimpse of a second.

Surviving the toughest night of our sailing life (we had to cross the equator some how!), we were happy to reach Isla Genovesa. North-East of all the islands, this is the only place to see the Red-Footed-Boobies & Great Frigates. The Red-Footed-Boobies are unique and nest on trees. the also have red legs and blue bills. When in juvenile stage, they have a white body which all together resembles the American flag. The Boobies and the Frigates are both sworn enemies. Even so - they nest on the same tree, and usually - on ``neighbor-branches``. Frigates destroy the Boobie`s nests, rebuild them - and live there - and vice-versa.
Genovesa itself is a volcano. The boat`s harbor is the crater, and the land is the underwater mountain`s perimeter. The most special animal on this island in my opinion is the Galàpagos Owl. Not like any other owl - this one prays during the day! It is very hard to spot due to it`s magnificent camouflage.

North Seymour was the last island in the cruise. Here we finished of our ``check-list`` by seeing the Magnificent-Frigates with their inflated red sacks. They inflate their sacks only during mating season, and due to the fact that on North Seymour, the Frigates nest all year long - it`s most likely to see them inflate their red sack on this island.

The end of the cruise means the end of Galàpagos, or does it?
My family decided we`re going to live this once in a lifetime experience just a bit more...
The boat left us where it picked us up on the first day: The airport of Baltra island. From there, we had to take a bus, a ferry, another bus and a speedboat in order to reach Isla Isabela. On the first two days, we were obligated to a tour we booked for seeing the island. Included in the tour, was an evening tour (not worth you reading time), a walk up to see Volcan Sierra-Negra - the world`s second largest crater, which erupted on 2005. And a snorkeling dive near the island.
The climb to the volcano wasn`t as hard as we thought it would be. The so common open sided truck took us almost all the way up, from there it was a 3 hour ascent (not to steep) and a 2 hour descent on the way back. The crater itself is amazingly black.

The snorkeling afternoon also got to be great fun. We found a very pleasant turtle which didn`t mind us petting it and swimming next to it for almost half and hour. I saw my first spotted ray!

We heard about Campo-Duro by mistake, and did not know what to expect from it. Turns out it`s the personal little heaven of the crazy-briliant-minded owner. He took management of the place with a vision of turning it to an ecological farm for the use of tourists and tortoises alike. The national park lets him raise about 20 juvenile tortoises. If you`ll be nice - he`ll also let you in to their farm. He built ecological showers for the use of the campers, and invented his own ``egg tree``.

The day after that (our last active day on the Galàpagos), we took a walk to see ``Muro de las Lagrimas`` (The Wall of Tears). This wall was erected by convicts in the first half of this century when this area served as a penal colony. Many prisoners died during the work of the construction, giving it its name.
On the way to the wall, there are beauty spots with explanations about the fauna, flora and geology. There`s also another tortoise research station on the way, which experts in the unique species living on Isabela island.

The next day was a crazy transport day. Speed-boat, private-taxi, ferry, bus, plane & another taxi is the list used in order to get in one piece from Isabela island to Guayaquil. Not easy.
That night was the last of me and my family together (until my return home...), and so we celebrated in a very good meat-stake dinner. Thank You!

Tips for Islas Galàpagos:

- Española & Genovesa were my favorite islands. If you have to pick - pick at least one of them.

- Bring some snacks with you - after 4 of 8 days, you really get sick of the chicken/fish with your rise.

- Try and bargain your snorkelong gear into the bargain. We added a lot of money after knowing the deal was already ``all included``.

- If you`ve got the extra time, staying on one of the islands is not as expenssive as the cruises. Isla Isabela and Campo-Duro are recommended.

Arequipa & the Colca Cañon

Arriving to Arequipa with a night bus form Cuzco, we (the family & I) found ourselves in the main plaza at 6am. Dad & I search for a place to eat breakfast, and the rest guard the bags. After a good meal, with crepes (with Nuttela toppings) as desert, we do the same for finding a tour operator for the famous ``Colca Cañon Trek``.
We found three major price ranges:
1. Scary cheap - 150 Soles for a 3 day trek per person. We thought it was just to good to be true.
2. Lonely Planet price - ``Colca-Trek`` company recommended by the guidebooks just raised their noses a bit to high - 650 Soles for a 3 day trek per person.
3. Reasonable price - ``Pablo-Tours`` offered a different route from the others (off the bitten ``trek``), for just 280 Soles for a 3 day trek per person.
Talking to Pablo-Tours, we have a problem convincing Edwin (the owner, funny how his name isn`t Pablo..) we truly are a group of 6. We planned on doing a 4 day trip, just in 3 days, connecting the first to days together. In order to do so, we thought it would be better if we just took a local bus the same day all the way to Cabanaconde, a village located on the cliff of the canyon and the starting point of the trek. The bus is 7 hours - local bus - which means it stops A-LOT on the way. Before setting the deal, Edwin reports us that there aren`t any running water in the small town of Cabanaconde.
21:00, Cabanaconde, Time without shower - 29 hours.
After leaving our belongings in the hostel, we sit at the nearby restaurant. Long story short:
We had to wait an hour and a half for our meals, which were served cold. The nice owner kindly explained that it`s the new (and bad) chef`s fault, and the whole meal (6 dishes & 2 bottles of beer) is on the house.
08:00, Cabanaconde, Time without shower - 40 hours.
A very good breakfast was served in our hostel (owned by Edwin`s brother). Satisfied, we greet our guide with ``Buenas Dias``, and leave to witness the deepest canyon in the world.
We all know our abilities from the said to be harder Inca-Trail, but still, when finally seeing the 1200m descent we have to pass - all of us have just on thing in our mind - the last day, and the climb back (to the same height off course!).
Half way down, Inbal twisted her ankle. We all walk slower, and thoughts about the length of the day play with our minds. Edison, the guide, which was promised to be a good guide that speaks just Spanish, says (in perfect English) that we`ll keep on going to the lunch village, and see what goes from there.
The way down is long and hard on the knees. Surrounding us are cliffs and mountains dry and bold. On every other curve in the mountain side in front of us, there`s a small village with very few crops around it.
Edison turns out to be an excellent guide and a very interesting person. His main job is not being a guide but growing Cacti. On the Cacti, grow valuable parasites, which he collects, dries, and sells. We already knew about those parasites, but this time we got a very good explanation from a first hand informant.
Reaching the bridge is good & bad. Good - the way down is done for. Bad - I`ll just let you guess.
Just an hour more, this time up hill, and we reached the beautiful ``Llauar``, a true oasis. It sits with an astonishing view of the main Colca river, and another smaller river connecting to it just bellow the hosting huts.
Inbal is dog tired, Llauar is lovely, and knowing the World-Cup Final is now in play, we easily decide to stay for the night as well.
On arrival, we found Edison (already in the kitchen making lunch) hooked to the Spanish speaking radio. Even though I understood only a few words, and needed Edison`s translation every enthusiastic shout, all the guys of the family were listening to the commentary like it was in Hebrew. Football is certainly a game made to be broad casted in Spanish.
There are also thermal baths in Llauar but you`ll have to walk a long way down (not a problem) and up (a bit...), to enjoy them. Kobi & Igal were the only ones with the powers.
08:00, Llauar, Time without shower - 64 hours.
The next morning we were all feeling better after the long unexpected rest, and were doing our way towards ``The Oasis``. On the way, we passed a nice small village called ``Tapay`` were we stayed to rest and were offered the local ``Chicha`` as a refreshing beverage. Don`t have it mixed up with the famous ``Chicha Morada`` (a sweat corn-drink served cold). The Chicha is a strong alcoholic drink better served cold, but not always. When leaving, I told the owner how good his home-made drink was - in return I was asked to pay for tasting it. I didn`t.
In Tapay, we decided it would be better to split our forces. Kobi (who is really cute but also knew there was a pool waiting) offered to go with Inbal and her twisted ankle. The rest went for a longer walk, in order to site ``San Juan De Chucchuc``.
In the evening we regrouped for a football match (Boxermans + Edison Vs. the local team) so I could re-twist my ankle (worst than you Inbal! - not that it`s a competition or anything) and have a better challenge for the upcoming day. Igal, Kobi & Edison played amazing though - and off course - we won!
We went to bed (not before another favorite family game of ``Wist``), setting our alarm clock for 02:30am.
03:00, Oasis, Time without shower - 83 hours.
Waking up way to early, we couldn`t find Edison. After searching, calling and waiting for over 15 minutes, we decided we have to try and walk by ourselves if we want to catch the early 06:00am bus to the Cruz del Condor view point.
The climb from the Oasis, is not an oasis at all. It`s a 1200m ascent back to Cabanaconde. In order to not loose our moral, I started to count the curves of the climb, all was dark, and that was the only sure thing we could see during the long ascent. Edison met us mid way to the top, and apologized for the fact that his alarm just didn`t ring. We understood the human mistake. The climb was hard, and due to some more family difficulties, we separated again to the fast and the slow. The goal was that at least the fast could get in time to the view point and see some condors.
Thanks to Edison - Kobi, Igal & I got to the bus on time. The condors were amazing and flew far away at first, but got closer as the thermic winds got stronger.
Edison (who waited for the rest of the family in Cabanaconde) & the rest of the team met us on the next bus in the view point, and we were on our way, all together again, back to Arequipa.
16:00, Arequipa, Time without shower - 96 hours.
We got early enough to Arequipa in order to buy bus tickets to Nazca for the same day.
Edwin set for us a hostel, with showers, so that we could get to Nazca without killing the driver and passengers on the bus on the way.




Tips for Arequipa & the Colca Cañon:
1. Never take a taxi from the street - Edwin warned us to much about the danger included. Every tour agency would be happy to order one for you.
2. Pablo-Tour, run by Edwin is a wonderful agency. Edwin is a lovely person and will be happy to help with any question. Checkout thier website at http://www.pablotour.com/ .
3. Edison was a great guide, and even though Edwin promised he doesn`t know English - he does.
4. Llauar is one of the most perfect places I`ve been to in South America, and isn`t in the touristic route inside the cañon - go there!

Salar de Uyuni - The Salt Flats (Photographer's Utopia)

Wow, what a shock. Imagine your self a whole town that is built just for one purpose - The Salt Flats. This means, that as you`re reading, more and more agencies rise up, in the means of catching (even a penny), of the endless amount of confused tourists wanting nothing but 3 days in the Salt Flats (oh, yeah, and maybe stay alive while your at it).
Dave (one nice Canadian) & I arrived to Uyuni evening time. Quickly found a hostel, and we were on our way to check out the agencies. We started by searching for a place called ‘’Ranking’’ recommended by the Bolivia Lonely Planet (2007 ver.) owned by Dave. After finding out (and not quiet believing) that it has been closed for the last 3 years (probably right after the edition was published…) we go and try to figure it out by our selves.
After checking about 3-4 agencies, and seeing that it’s all the same bullshit, we find a place to eat and go to sleep (agreeing that the bargain in the morning will be more efficient). We were right. Returning to the same agencies in the morning, they all went down by 10% (from 550$B, to 500$B). We chose a tour which offered the same classical one, but in reverse (Replay Company, on the main street of the agencies). We also found out that there were 10 Israelis and one Australian already booked for the same day.
All tours leave 10:00-11:00AM, we were told the same, but left the town of Uyuni only on 11:30 (8 of the Israelis had to have coffee). Once we got to meet, I knew I would have to hold my breath for the next 3 days. These guys are the worst tourists I have ever met, not to mention the fact that I understood and hated everything that went out of their mouths & IPODs. Thank god for in-ear phones and high volume.
As to the views, heaven. First stop (after 4-5 hours of driving) was in a rock formation garden. Combination of winds, rain, and the geological formation of the rocks helped form all kinds of structures in the stones in all shapes and sizes.
While on the dirt road, the driver’s eye catches a movement. He stops the jeep on-spot, jumps out in haste, and runs 20 meters away from the car. Then picks up an Armadillo. We all rout happily and jump out to take pictures with it.
Arbol Del Piedra (The Stone Tree) is uniquely amazing. As we get there, I hurry up to catch it alone (before all the tourist come and ruin the photo). Grant (the Australian) rushes as well (with the same camera!), and tries to climb it. Grant is one step from the top, as a driver of another company starts shouting at him (to come down of course), Grant completes the climb, I take the wanted photo, and he climbs down, and then starts a huge argument about why Israelis do stuff like that? Grant stands and shouts that he isn’t even an Israeli and that he didn’t mean to harm anyone, but that doesn’t help his point.
By sunset we are already in the first hostel. Made of semi-salt walls, no owner seen (maybe the driver of the other car (which got there first), arranged the stay or something…), we are introduced to our rooms, and I catch a corner bed, Dave takes his time and ends up with the one closest to the door. The Israelis don’t stop their bitching.
A bit of space alone, finally. Dinner helps me decide what I think about the other Israelis (till now were in the other jeep), awful. And about Grant, which turned out to be another happy soul stuck in a jeep with bitching Israelis that also turned out to be awful, screaming, singers.
After a good night sleep (for me, not for any of the Israelis crying about the cold or my snoring), we set of (late again, guess whose fault…), to see geysers! The first one is a charm. It blows constantly from the ground, because of the cold (early in the morning), everybody find themselves warming up from the hot fumes. Then, running back to the warmer jeeps. The other part of the geyser area is mainly mud –pools, without the option to warm up in them.
Next stop (still early), the hot-springs! A warm pool, hot enough considering the cold outside, and very satisfying! I was the only one (from our 2 jeeps) to take a bath. Getting ready to return to the jeep, suddenly, I see my long lost friend Dror! Already naked, and ready for a deep. We quickly hugged and arranged a meeting in La Paz. Alek happened to be in the WC that exact moment.
The rest of the day was mainly dedicated to the National Park, which is famous for his beautiful lagoons, and Flamingos that nest in them. We drove next to 5 lagoons, some were frozen, and only the last had a handful of Flamingoes. All stunning.
The second night, we sleep in a salt hotel, all is made of salt, and from the location of the hotel, we can see the sunset on the Salar salt flats. 10$B more if you want to take a shower, made me a bit mad. The place also included a small ‘Aymara’ speaking child, which managed to convince every one of us to take turns and push him on his little car (‘Bimba’), faster and faster. Somehow, I couldn’t help myself but thinking about my nephew.
The same night, we had to hear the Israelis argue between themselves, not thinking it was our (Dave, Grant & I) decision as well, if they want to get up so early to see the sunrise over the Salar, or not. We managed to get pissed at them one last time, but for nothing (because they made the right decision).
Waking up to see the sunrise! Driving pretty fast on the flats. No real roads in this part - just drive wherever. While the car is moving, you can see the colors starting to change, but can’t take a shot. When we finally stop I jump out to get the earliest colors possible. The white salty flats act like a huge canvas, and the sun is the most creative painter. Certainly one of my favorite sunrises ever.
The sunrise lookout is right next to the Island of the Cacti, so I decide to walk my way there. Once in, I climbed to the top, walking next to enormous Cactus trees, in all shapes and sizes. From the top, you’re able to see all of the Island, and the Salt desert around it. The sun is working its magic, and the endless amount of white is blinding. Grant & I chased my first Viscacha (a large rabbit, with a long tail); we thought it was a very strange looking thing.
All evening, Grant & I (with little help from Dave), made a list of things that we could try and shoot in the funny-pictures area in the middle of the salt flats (except for Pringles!). Once we got there, we were thankful for our list. We had much to do, and less time to do it. No point writing about it when you can see the outcome for yourselves.
The last stop was the train graveyard. Not too pretty, but fun to climb on.

Tips for Salar De Uyuni:

1. Try to close up a jeep with people you already know (3-4 days is a long time to be stuck with awful people...).

2. don`t pay over 500 bolivianos for 3 days.

3. My company (Ripley) was ok. but not more then that. and they did unforgetable stuff like trying to run over some birds just for fun.

4. For your own safty - travel with ''In-ear'' earplugs for your mp3. as soon as the driver hears your from israel - Eyal Golan will be played (very loudly) in the car`s speakers.

5. check out if the tour company regesters the sleeping places before the trip - our company did`t and we had to search for a place each night (2 nights).

6. bring your sleeping bag - its cold at night in the Salar (and in Uyuni).

7. Try sitting in the front sits - that way you could get out of the car when ever you like (and that`s alot) to take all the photos.

8. Don`t take too much to the trip - no need for nothing (except for the sleeping bag, warm&not warm cloths, sunglasses, chocolate, sunscreen, camera).

9. You would probably not have a night with hot showers - ask the company. the sacond night we had a place that charged 10 bolivianos for the shower (I didn`t take one).

10. Some companies have special things included in the trip (Revers rute, Bikeride...) - search for the one that fits you.