The Peruvian Side of Lago Titicaca

Peru, the fifth country in my trip (Argentina, Chile, Brazil, and Bolivia so far…), welcomes us in Puno. Puno is the Peruvian tourist gateway to Lago Titicaca. On the bus from Copacabana, Bolivia, we meet Edgar, a nice agent that ended up helping us with everything we wanted in the Puno area + the hostel we ended up sleeping at in Cuzco.

Edgar led us to a nice & small hostel called La Casa Del Abuelo (Grandpa’s House), it was close to the center, and we enjoyed both the center & the hostel very much. Searching for a place to eat, we found a small pizzeria, named ‘Pizza Andina’, where they make your pizza right in front of you in a small stove. The streets of Puno are so cold, and the warmth of the restaurant was just perfect. The pizzas were served on a really thin base, and with loads of toppings to our choice.

The next morning we went on a 2 day tour around the islands on the Peruvian side of Lago Titicaca. The tour starts on the Floating Islands; these Islands are specially built by local Indians from floating mud, straws and ropes. On top of the hand-made platforms, they build their houses, kitchens & there’s even a fish pool. We had explanations about how the islands were built, and what people do and eat. We also got a chance to ride a traditional Indian boat made of only straw. These boats have an expiration date of up to three months. Today, the main income of the Floating Islands is tourism, but as touristic as they get, they’re still very special.

Next stop of the tour was Isla Amantani, a ‘none touristic’ island (then how come we go there?), where we were introduced to our hosting families whom served us lunch (mainly different varieties of potatoes), and showed us our rooms for the night. In the afternoon we met again with the rest of the group, and went on a walk on the island – to see the Pachetata (Father Earth) temple. Because of height problems, we made it to the temple only in time to witness the sunset. The temple itself is opened for the people only one day a year, finding a hole in the wall we managed to see the big phallus sculptured in the middle of the temple. Climbed down, ate dinner with the hosting family (mainly potatoes), and slept in our small beds (people of the Andes are really short). In the morning we ate a pancake for breakfast (that’s right, just one…).

The last stop of the tour was Isla Taquile, a touristic island (most of the tours go through it), where all of the people wear traditional clothing and are known for their excellence in knitting. All the people are very colorful. On the island we also had lunch (which wasn’t included in the trip); the guide takes you up the island, between the houses, and enters the restaurant. He then asks everyone to sit and hear his explanation about the clothing on the island, just when he finishes (after 3-5 plates with good smells fly by…), he asks who wants to stay and eat there. The prices were fine, so we stayed, but the pressure feasting was not a nice memory.

Back in Puno, we ordered a hostel in Cuzco through Edgar, and went to eat again in Pizza Andina.

Tips for The Peruvian Side of Lago Titicaca:

- The tour we took (The Floating Islands, Isla Amantani & Isla Taquile) was really short but satisfying. We got to see three different places in just 2 days.

- Pizza Andina was certainly a success. You’ll find it on Libertad Street (before it changes to Melgar).

- La Casa Del Abuelo (Jr. Tarapacá 399 y Libertad, Tel. (051) - 363465), is a nice place close to the center. With good beds, hot showers, and nice owners.

- Edgar is a real treasure. Contact him for any help or information (Edgar Cuno Adaza, cell 951-643678, or in La Casa Del Abuelo hostel), and say hi from the Boxerman family.

Buenos Aires, Capital of Tango, and Paris of South America!

Don't know shit about dancing, and haven't been to Paris, but I thought to try Buenos Aires out anyhow.
The next day (still in Bariloche remember?), I got on a bus to BA. I was promised a 21 hours ride, and right away, I knew I would surely love a Cama sit on the way.
driving around South America, you always have to make a decision:
Semi-Cama - the regular bus sit in any other bus in the world (that slightly shifts back words).
Cama - more space for your tushy, and the back of the chair shifts back up to 45 degrees.
Cama-Suite - space for the tushy, and a hole 180 degrees bed if you want.
Not all the buses and all the companies have all the options. And sometimes the prices jump way up from each different option to the other.
Choosing the Cama option, I knew I would manage to get some sleep on the bus, and that way save a day once getting to BA.
The center of each town I've been to, until now, was the place with all the interests, all the Internet stores, restaurants, mini markets, ext...With BA, It's different. people come here to 'go out', and the places to do that, are located in 2 particular neighborhoods: Palermo & San-Telmo.
Not knowing that, I picked out the most centered (cheapest), Hostel I could find from the Lonely-Planet book I've got.
The place was great, good people, good atmosphere, good guests at the time, good breakfast. Far away from all the night action.
On my arrival day I set of to a center tour. got to know the great 'Florida' street, always occupied with endless population, not really knowing were to go next...(them, not me)
Day 2: ''you've got to see the Recoleta cemetery'' says everybody. To Recoleta we go. If it wasn't Evita's Birthday, it wouldn't be as exciting... but it was better than I thought it would be. Big Fu#@% tombs, of very important/rich Argentinian persons.
Went around the rest of Recoleta, the big buildings (with live people inside) are much more exciting then the tombs.
After Recoleta, I thought seeing a bit of nature would be good for me, and walked my way to the National Park. A dry and flat area on the shores of the 'La Plata' river, meant for just one reason - so that city people could have a cheap (its free) way to go running, bike riding, and make out, with out the risk of getting hit by a car in the process. I tried to get out of there as fast as I can...
Day 3: Palermo! The neighborhood of the rich. Took the Subte, a fun and claustrophobic experience, from the land of the streetrats, and to the land of pure fashon, dogs, and pretty women (usually all together). Seeing the difference between the neighbohoods is amazing, here they have a Botanic Garden, a Japanese Garden, a Zoo, a Rose Garden and lots of other Gardens I didn't have the legs to see... It was Saturday, which means everybody was out. skating, bike riding, and taking the kids to the local zoo. Understanding I already saw most of the animals either in Tanzania last year, or I'll see them in the upcoming year in the wild! mixed with the fact that I haven't heard anything about this small zoo, and the 'round the corner' line of screaming children. Thanks, but I'll pass.
Walking away from the zoo's entrance, my eye's caught an enormous amount of people standing at the other side of the street. Searching the map, I couldn't find any zoo explanation for it... and crossed the street to check it out. Turns out it was the local 'book fair' (יום הספר ) and as I approached, I saw that they were not gathered around, but stood in a long line. following that line (to check out the books!), I found out that it's at least 3 blocks long! At that point I got back to the Subte station, and gave up.
Or, as a greater singer said:
בפלרמו,עיר הקיץ הקסומה,
יש קטלוג תנופת בנייה גדולה!
תיקח את עצמך מכאן,
ותיקח את עצמך מכאן עכשיו,
ולך לישון!
Day 4: As I should have guest, Oren & Liliya showed up. It was Sunday, and I wanted to go to the San-Telmo Market, But they said I should wait for them. And being a good friend, I did. And lucky for me this time... we started by going to Plaza de Mayo (second time for me) to see the great Plaza and the 'Pink House' (the celebrity house from which Madona, Played by Evita, sang to the screaming crowed of her last rock concert, but I'm not sure, so ask someone who cares...). as we were taking pictures, when I say we I mean Oren, two guards where walking in to the big pink think. and they had the strangest tale of people behind them. following and running to shot the great pics, we found ourselves standing in line for a tour around the house.
From the house, to the market! And my first 'wow' in BA! Endless colorful (Oren.liliya told me) market stands, fill with hats, paintings, antiques, clothing and whatnot! all the way from Plaza de Mayo and into Boca (the next neighbourhood). I almost bought a hat.
From San-Telmo, we continued our way into scary Boca. The poverty neighbourhood of BA and the one with the most respect full football (soccer) team in Argentina, Boca Juniors. Sunday, a match! crowd going wild on the streets, singing buses rush by... and Liliya wants to get closer to the 'booms' noises we keep on hearing. The important part is, we made it out of there alive.
Day 5: First Half off the day was a lovely regrouping with Gabi & Achia! then we said our goodbyes and decided to go out at night. Don't go out on a Monday night in BA, we'll leave it at that.
Day 6: Trying to find myself a new pair of boots, no success. walking up and down the Florida street I listened to great street bands playing wonderful jazz, Went Climbing with Liliya, a nice place, just 15 pesos per day of climbing, far away, and we had to rush back to make it to the Tango Show!
A smaller place then shown on the fliers, a loud man with a loud voice, sang very loud. the dancers were great (look up the beginning of this post), and a very strange Indian (well at least he was dressed up as one) thought no one would mind if he would act as though he is playing the playback. The greatest thing about the show, were the orchestra players, they were really worth it all.
The next morning, I took the next bus, to the next stop...The village where my grandmother was born and raised - Moises Ville..



Tips for Buenos Aires:
1. Going out - I didn't, probably because of my hostel's location. if your into going out more then I am, find a place in Palermo or San-Telmo
2. The San-Telmo Market - Go on a Sunday, don't miss it.
3. Tango Shows - you can skip that part. or just see it on the sunday market in San-Telmo

The Argentinian Lake District

Where were we? yeah, right, in Pucon.
Driving the road from Chile to Argentina, one notices the great difference between the Chilian Andes and the Argentinian ones. same for the Parallel Lake Districts.
Being so close apart, only a mountain-side away, the Argentinian lake district is just not the same:
I'll start off, from the border crossing. Next to the Argentinian checkpoint, stands Vulcan Lanin, with all its pride. 3,747 meters above sea level, and only 900 meters taller then the already known Villarrica, but goddamn, can it showoff! the great view we had, made me decide I can skip coming back here and rush all the way (still with Oren.Liliya) to San Martin de Los Andes.
San Martin de Los Andes, welcomed us with opened arms, being empty (without Israelis), and quiet (without Israelis).
Now having the time for it, I booked a tour guided van, going to the Seven Lakes for the next day (the main reason was of course getting rid of Oren.Liliya!).
The tour was supposed to take me around the Argentinian Lake District, seeing, as you might have guessed, 7 lakes. (I counted 6)
There was a very pleasant fellow guiding the tour. Very young, yet with very much knowledge. All in Spanish.
The microphone volume was set way to loud, but nobody except me seamed to notice. maybe speeches you don't understand are more annoying...
We drove in a rainy day, and couldn't see everything I wanted to see, stopped just on planned stops (not in the other magnificent places I saw through the windows). When we did stop, it was for short breaks in Miradors (lookouts), and everyone else did not understand why I was running ans rushing around (to take the best photos I can of course).
At mid day (just as the sun got out of the clouds finally) the van stopped at Villa la Angostura. A beautiful little town, touristic, on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and with nothing to do there for the 2 hour break we took.
Once going back on the van, the sun hiding again, we rode the last hour of the drive, without stops, until we arrived to my beloved Bariloche.
That night, I said my goodbyes to the Lake Districts (both), with a large stake, at Parrilla Don Alberto.
The main Difference between The Argentinian and The Chilain Lake Districts will be the weather you fall upon. seeing lakes without sun is a shame. they usually have a mirror effect, which will not show on a cloudy day.
The scenery around the lakes, is where the change happens..
On the Chilian side, volcanoes and small towns (almost untouched by tourism), higher mountains and good sea food!
On the Argentinian side, lots of Chocolate, better roads, and great meat!
Except for that, try seeing them both with a rented car, so you could stop when, and where ever you like.
If I had ant other option but the Touristic van, I would take it. Not having a drivers licence or people to share a rented car with, made my decision for me.



Tips for the Argentinian Lake District:
1. Rent a Car - you'll good deals from Bariloche, and you can see, stop and make your own rute as you like it.
2. Restaurant 'La-Andina', Bariloche - Cheap, good food (Empanadas, Pizzas, Pastas), and good people.
3. Volcan Lanin - Seeing it on a good day, just worth all the drive. (Check the weather first, its a long drive)

Pucon

Back in Osorno, we met Gabi & Achiya again. We all (Oren, Lilya, Gabi, Achiya & I) thought about climbing the great Volcan Puyehue together, but checking the weather it looked as though we are to late in the season. A quick look at the weather status in Pucon helped us agree that we would probably have a better chance at climbing the Volcan Villarica.
One last night in Osorno, a goodbye dinner from Gabi & Achiya (who just returned from Pucon, and now headed for Mendoza), morning packing, buying tickets and we're on our way to Pucon.
We got to Pucon after a long (many stops on the way) drive. Night time. Getting off the bus a pretty lady asks me if I've got a place to stay, I started saying (In Spanish of course!) ''Sorry, I already got a hostel but I can't remember the name...'' (One Gabi & Achiya recommended) As the words slowly come out of my mouth, I see her adv. poster, and recognize the name of the hostel. It was the same one. Maitahue.
On the bus I met Dror & Alek (two bearded fellows whom I already met on the hell bus to Perito Moreno, and again on the Carretera Austral). So all of us went to the same hostel together. 5 people in one night, the lady's face was very pleased!
Walking to a van, with the pretty (& nice) lady, getting in, driving to the hostel (which turned out to be a bit to far from the center). The hostel was full with people, all Israelis, watching TV, using the computer, or cooking dinner. very bad first impression (for a traveler trying to avoid Israelis). But as it turned out, 5-6 of them left 2 hours later, leaving only the 5 of us, with about 3 more Israelis. That's fine with me.
The next day was known to be rainy, and so it was. Knowing that, we went to book ourselves to the Villarica climb, the day after that.
07:30 AM, arriving to 'Gideon's' travel agency all ready to climb. Weather was supposed to be great.
08:30 AM, getting in to the vans (with very loud Israelis), headed to the starting point of the Volcano's ascent.
09:10 AM, Dismounting the vehicles at 1200 meters above sea level. Everyone said that if the ski-lifts work, we should take them (''saves you 400 meters of climb, and cost just 10$US''), they didn't.
09:20 AM, Starting the ascent of the volcano. 29 Israelis, 2 Holland chicks (one extraordinary beautiful), 7 guides (all very much like to be back in Pucon for a very important Barcelona-Inter football match).
For me, the climb was easy. At first. Some other people, those filled with Testosterone, or without, typical Israelis who (from real sentences I've heard on the way...) didn't really know why the hell the were on a volcano, and why the hell did they pay so much for such suffering? If they said it or not, none of them really liked the ascending part.
With 400-600 meters to go, the head-guide announced we can't continue with the climb. To much wind & ice on the top. Two minutes more, and he changed it to ''Just the fit go on from here, and be honest with yourselves''. I went on, already said it was too easy...until then.
The last part of the climb was steeper, and we, for some reason (maybe the football match), walked even faster than before. Then came the last 100 meters.
In which, the smoke coming out of the volcano, swept off with the wind...off the summit and in to our lounges. You try climbing up, but there's no clean air to breath. Somehow, we made it.
From the top, above the clouds, we could see 3 more volcanoes! (the guides said it was a day with bad view, in good view you could see up to 5) Standing on the summit, you can see volcanic crater. You just stand there, so small, and wait for the lava to jump out, just a bit, and show itself.
The three guides left (the weak climbed down a long time ago with the other guides), rushed us off the summit (football match?) after less than 10 minutes. We started the descent. At first on our feet, and about the same height we abandoned the 'weak', we got the order to put off our crampons, and were introduced to a very fun gliding technique. One which helped us descent to about 1600 meters above sea level. A few more steps, another annoying drive with different Israelis (same amount of 'too loud'), and we're back in lovely Pucon.
The next day was Oren's Birthday. He felt just fine, so we had to cancel our planed trip to the 'ants' trek. we found ourselves wondering around the city of Pucon, which has beautiful beaches on Lago Villarica, Lovely street dogs who followed us everywhere, and a secret homey restaurant ('La Picada') recommended by the nice workers from Gideon's. Went to see the lake, played on the beach with our new dogs, and ate at the great restaurant. When asking for 'La cuenta' (the bill, for you Inbal) we were amazed hear (no actual bill) it was very cheap as well (5 $US dollars per person approx.).
The fourth day in Pucon was said to be more cloudy, and Oren still felt fine, so Lilya and I went 'Cannioning' waterfalls (''Snapling'' in rubbish Hebrew). Oren doesn't like heights anyways. Set it up again, through Gideon (because it was cheap, and because we liked the workers there), this time just Lilya, me and a Huver the guide. first drove to the river, dressed up on the spot (diving suit, boxers, raincoat, helmet, diving shoes, and harness), and started walking. 10 minutes later, we were above the first waterfall. The ad said we'll have 4 water walls 15-25 meters high. We climbed down 3, and one had a very unusual technique, we glided on our bellies! It was fun, and the guide was kind of a Ninja, or maybe didn't care for his life too much, I couldn't tell.
Fifth day in Pucon. This time all were feeling well, and on their way to Ojos de Caburgua. Two rivers meeting on one geological step, causing a 300 degrees of waterfalls that could be circled around and be watched from every wanted angle. At total we witnessed 4 major water falls, 2-3 smaller ones, and one Laguna Azul (blue). All spectacular, and just 15 minutes drive from Pucon. From the waterfalls we walked back to the road, and Hitchhiked our way to Caburgua. A small town established on a lake with the same name. Caught a Hitch on the back of a pickup-truck (Oren was very exited for his first ride on the back of a pickup-truck, and smiled like a little girl on her birthday). Walked on the shore of the lake, its called 'Playa Blanca' for its slightly less black sand (all the rest of the sand around here is black from the volcanic rocks). Sun was hot and we just fell asleep for half an hour on the shoreline. Just like in Tel-Aviv.
Next stop, Junin de los Andes, Argentinian lake district.

Tips for Pucon:
1. Gideon is a nice man, and hires very pleasant workers & professional guides. The only downside of my climb was the too many Israelis.
2. Everybody said the Cannoning is only for women. I enjoyed it very much. and as far as I know - I'm all man.
3. 'La Picada' - The secret homey restaurant. Located on Cacique Uruguay #215. But don't tell anyone.
4. Hostal Maitauhe (casa de Andrea) - Cacique Paillalef #965. Clean, cheap, a bit far from town, too many potential Israelis.

The Chilian Lake District

Three people in the city of Osorno, Chile. Oren, Lilya & Me.
A large and busy city. None turistic. Our goal is to find a car-rental agency as soon as possible, and go see as many lakes as we can manage, in few days as we can plan it.
Looking at the maps, we thought we would be able to make it in 4-5 days. Looking at the city, we barely found a car-rental agency.
Finaly, we did. And after spending 1.5 days in the city, we started to drive south in our little Kia Morning.
First stop, Frutillar. A small town on the large lake of Llanquihue, which welcomed us with the most beautiful rainbow I have ever seen!
That night we slept at the larger, and more turistic town called Puerto Varas.
When we look for a place to stay, we usually look for the writings 'Hostel' (youth-hostel) or 'Hospedaje' which means a hostel, runned by a local family. Both are the chipest, but 'Hospedajas' are a better option for those who want to see the 'real' South America (like us).
Looking for a place to spend the night, preferring Hospedajas, we found a sign with the word 'Hospedaje' on it.
It turned out to be a labyrinth-like hostel in which you had climb very steep staircases and be very aware to where you were going, otherwise, you'd be lost forever. Nothing like a hospedaje.
From Puerto Varas, we drove to the small town called Ensenada. Up the road from the town stands the dreadful Volcan Osorno. Ensenada didn't want us to be scared, so she was kind enough to cover the scary volcan with clouds. We went to see the near 'Saltos Todos los Santos' instead. In one word, WOW! In more:
Imagin a black volcanic-rock plato, a pipe-like pathway, carved by the water just about 2-3 meter wide, and gallons of water just rushing through it in a stream as hard as Chuck Norris.
All that should have been with the view of the volcan. (We returned day next day, just to see the full picture).
From the Saltos, to the lake with the same name. Same story I'm afraid... great lake - no volcan.
Gathered info for the next day, and went of to see what we could see from the top of the road on the volcan. Nothing.
Returning to the town, to look for a host for the night, knowing it would be a better day tomorow. After a long search, and a lot of closed places (the end of the turist season), we found the perfect Hospidaje which this time stood by its name. A semi-grandmom señora (Silvia Aburto), a nice quiet, chilian home (Hospedaje Escala II).
Waking up, in a warm home, through the windows we could see we made the right choise. Three volcanos in sight. Which Brought up the question: Would you build your home where you can see three volcanos??
In this perfect day, we wanted to go for a long, 8hr, walk. after 5 hours of looking for a track, we thought we can try and see (again) what there is to see from the volcano. Beating the fog this time, we saw the sunset from the top of the road.
A night in Puerto Octay. Driving north, and Finaly (after cicaling around it), leaving lago Llanquihue. This day, seeing Volcan Puntiagudo in the morning, lago Rapunco at noon, lago Puyehue at the afternoon, and lago Ranco at sunset.
After a long drive, find a place to sleep in another perfect, and probably the only hospedaje in Paillaco. Owned by a very nice middleaged men, Breakfeast and everything!
On the last 'lakes' day we saw lago Panguipulli in the morning, but mainly drove around lao Calafquen. On the east coast of lago Calafquen, and on our way to lago Pellaifa, we checked out another place that said 'saltos' on the map, which turned out to be a river with 3 waterfalls near the road (but we were forced to pay an entrance to the national park up the road). The first waterfall is quite similar to the one we saw near Ensenada, but just as pretty. The second we did not manage to get to, because the trail somehow didn't lead us to it. And the third was about 70 meters high, and magnificent.
Farther up the road, caught us by surprise, a hotel from the fantacy world. Again, Wow.
By the time we got to lago Pellaifa, it was to dark.
Drove 2 more hours, till we got to Valdivia. Slept in a dirty hostel.
In the morning, we went for a walk around what was supposed to be a German, university city, as we were walking, we entered the Tourist-Information building.
Filled with what turned out to be the most useless info I ever got from anyone, we kept on walking in the general direction of the local fishmarket. Entering the fishmarket, Suddenly, we heard a strange sound/roar. A Sealion? The Tourist-Information didn't say anything about any Sealions in Valdivia?!
Walking closer to the giant animal, we were amazed to see more and more of them (atleast 20). This and more! Small vultures flying around the sky! Kormorans? Seagoals? lots of them.
We ended up ''wasting'' 2-3 hours around the fishmarket of Valdivia taking pictures, and animal watching the surrounding area.
With those amazing views, ended a 5 day drive around the Chilian Lake District.

Tips for the Chilian Lake District:

1. Osorno - A big city, but some places like the market and the Catedral in the Plasa de Armes are very pretty. In the market there are local restaurants you can eat in (Paila Marina is a fine dish).

2. Ensenada - The Homey Hospedaje 'Esacala II'.

3. Valdivia - Go to the Fishmarket! It's full with lots of beautiful animals, as discribed in the post above.

Living in the Past

Next on my list is to update you all on what has happened in the last two months (it will be as short as possible - but keep in mind - this is a post summering two very intensive months):

some of the dates are approx. because I'm rushing it all from my memory. The future posts, my promise will be more accurate...

20.2.2010

Leaving Israel on a flight to São-Paulo, Brasil.

21.2.2010

From São-Paulo, Brasil to Ushuaia, Argentina, a short stop to switch planes, in Buenos-Aires.

22.2 - 1.3.2010 - Ushuaia

First three days where a shock! But after seeing the ''National Park Triera del Fuego'' and meeting the great people in ''The Jewish House'', I got the hang of it and went for a two days trek to ''Passo de Oveja'' (the pass of the sheep).

One more week, trying to find companions for a longer trek (''Sierra Valdevicio''), walking along the shore, celebrating ''Purim'' in the Jewish house, and trying to find a hitch to porto williams and the dientes circuit.

Tip for Ushuaia:

1. Hospedaje - The cheapest place to stay in Ushuaia. It is run by a nice & hyperactive lady and her drunk ¿husband?. You'll find it on the corner of 'Roca' & 'Deloqui' streets.

2. The Jewish House - In my time the couple running it were just great... Maybe it´s worth it to check who's there when you get there.

3. Whiskey! Its just so cheap here!

2-10.3.2010 - A Gateway into Chile! Punta Arenas.

A too long, 15 hours, bus ride to Punta Arenas.

Meeting Shachar (a.k.a chachachr) and Michael in the hostel ''Roxana'', the Israeli couple showed me around, and told me where to do the Penguin ride (which was fun, but with not much penguins to see - at the end of their season).

Also in the hostel, meeting Stewart, a pipe playing Scotsman, with whom I've done the Cruz de los Mares trek with.

After the 5 day (exhausting) trek, I continued on to Puerto Natales.

Tips for Punta Arenas:

1. If you like going through freezing rivers do the Cruz de los Mares trek. If not, DON'T!

12-22.3.2010 - Puerto Natales & The great Torres Del Paine

After meeting Oren Sochoy & Lilya on the bus to Puerto Natales, started the gathering of information for my first ''long'' trek - the 7-8 days Torres del Paine circuit.

First ''tenador libre'' (all you can eat) at juan's hostel (5,000 $ch).

Finding Iliya, Boaz & Lior to walk with me in the trek.

Eating with Oren & Lilya Menu del Dia (meal of the day) in different restaurants...

and we're off!

The first two days I've done with Iliya, Boaz & Lior. After that I've gone off alone and with very interesting and fun people from all over the world:

Marcus, Germany.

Tristan, CA, USA.

Scott, NZ.

And much more with whom I spent less time and so don't remember all their names.

Tips for Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales:

1. In Torres del Paine - do the Circuit. It´s worth it! Silent, with animals, and the view of the Glacier Grey from the top of the Passo John Gardner is just AMAZING!

2. In Puerto Natales - Don't eat at Carlitos. My hamburger wasn't fresh. I was sick for 3 days.

3. Hostel Esmeralda. With a nice breakfast, for a nice price and in the center.

23.3.2010 - El Calafate & the Perito Moreno

Just 2 days (rushing to make it to the Fitz Roy), were enough to see the great glacier Perito Moreno. It is told by everyone that this is the most beautiful glacier of all... but I am sorry to say, that I found glacier Grey of the Torres del Paine much more exciting.

I've done the glacier with Iliya, which I met by accident.

Also met Til, the greatest German Shepard ever! he camped with me for 2 nights in El Calafate, and joined the short yet good celebration of Iliya's birthday.

Tips for El Calafate & the Perito Moreno:

1. I saw the Glacier Grey good enough, so the Perito Moreno wasn't such a big deal for me. If it was me again, I would consider not going. It's expensive, and if you saw the Grey in a good day, and don't have the money, its OK to skip it.

25.3.2010 - El Chalten & The Fitz Roy

The very small village of El Chalten, is considered by the Argentinians as ''the capital of trekking'' even though, the only major trek in the area is the 5-6 days (going slow) trek, to the Fitz Roy and the even more impressive Cerro Torre.

Before going of for the 2 day trek, I've Made planes with Oren & Lilya to rent a car together for the Caratera Austral, so they have gone off to Bariloche to rent the car, and I was planing on going on the 29th (my birthday) to the forsaken town called Perito Moreno...

That's why, on the night of the 28th (telling myself that its already my birthday in Israel anyways), I went to eat a very large and good stake at a local restaurant. Of course, who comes in, if not, Iliya! we celebrated my birthday together with lots of alcohol & popcorn at a local brewery.

Tips for the Fitz Roy:

1. See the Fitz Roy at sunrise!

2. See the Cerro Torre.

3. Bring enough money and food to El Chalten. There is just one ATM, and everything is expensive.

30.3.2010 - Ghostown Perito Moreno

Waiting for my pickup by Oren, Lilya & Gabi and Achia.

3.5 days I waited. During Santa Semana (Ester), which means everything is more closed than closed.

One Tip - STAY OUT OF THIS PLACE.

2-9.4.2010 - The Caratera Austral

Salvation! they all came, with a big pickup truck.

in the Caratera Austral we managed to do a lot! with a car you can cover a wide route just in few days:

The Marble Caves in Rio Tranquilo.

Horse ride in Cerro Castillo.

Puerto Chacabuco.

The Hanging Glacier.

Hot baths in El Amarillo.

The ruins (from volcanic dust) of the town Chaiten & the south part of Parque Pumalin.

Futalifue.

and lots and lots of views from lagoons, lakes, mountains and snow.

Tips for the Caratera Austral:

1. Know the people you rent a car with. A week is a long time. I was very lucky to be with great people.

2. Don't eat the Asado after the horse ride in Cerro Castillo. It sucks.

9.4.2010 - 'till now... Bariloche

Drove all the way (back, for some) to Bariloche (a.k.a almost Heaven).

When in Bariloche, you have to check out 3 things: the meat, the ice cream, and the endless amount of chocolate.

Done a bike ride around ''Circuito Chico''.

Waited 2 days for the weather to get better (and eating too much), then went off, alone again... to do the trek called Nauhal Huapi Traverse, which is supposed to be 5 days.

Rushing the first day and a half, I got to refugio Jakob where I was told it isn't a very good idea to continue on to the pass. Hearing that I felt the exhaustion from rushing all the way... and suddenly really wanted to finish off this trek. That night I slept in a warm bed again.

Tips for Bariloche:

1. The Traverse should be great, just come in the season. If you don't have the time, do a day hike just to Lagoon Frey & Lagoon Schmol.

2. Chocolate, Icecream & Meat.

NOW!

Still in Bariloche, for 4 days I haven't done much ('cause of bad weather again)... just been with everybody on skype, sent all the pictures from the last 2 months (hopping to erase my almost full memory cards), gone to Cerro Otto (a very good view point above the city of Bariloche), and planed my next moves regarding the last Chile part of my trip - The Lake District & Pucon.

And started a new Blog...hope you like it...

Hasta Luego,

Awad.

Welcome to my new Blog!

First of all, I'll explain why I started this blog,

After wondering around south argentina + chile for 2 months, I (bit by bit) started getting the filling the maybe I'm not preserving all my memories as best as I should.

Taking lots of pictures is great and all, but I tought i would like to keep a record of the names and places I've met and seen.

The options I've found we´re:

a. start a journal.

1. only I watch and see till the end of this trip at least..

2. is in hebrew.

b. start a blog.

1. friends and family read and post their comments about my progress

2. is in english/spanish/jibrish.

well, here I am, made my decision... hopping you'll enjoy it.