Santa Cruz Trek, Huaraz, Peru

I had 3 more treks on my ''to do'' list, and Santa Cruz was the easiest. Only 4 days and accessible without any guidance, we decided to find some partners to share the costs.
We walked around rumors & hostels in Huaraz, searching for the right people willing to join the ''adventurous'' us.
''Without a guide? Too crazy for me.''
''How are we to find donkeys to carry our stuff?"
And so, luckily we met Eido. Eido just came back from the Huayhuash trek, and was eager to keep on trekking. 3 was a good number, but still turned out expensive. So we kept on searching.
Jutta & Tal also returned in the same group with Eido, but Jutta wanted to wait until her blistered legs felt better. Because the three of us were really slow going and took our time in search & in arranging the trek, Jutta's legs manages to get better and - HOP - we were a good group of five. Paz, Eido, Jutta, Tal & I.
Happy we have a group, we now concentrated on the trek itself. We bought food and rented tents. Even set up with a company to call one "harriero" (donkey operator), so that we would meet with him in the starting point village.
All set and ready we took the 6 o'clock bus to Vaqueria. Peru like Peru, the bus left late and arrived later than our wildest bad dream. And to add up to all of that - no harriero.
A local woman washing cloths on the road offered us an operator - "just wait half an hour and he'll be here!" Two hours is how long it took us to give up, grab our belongings and start walking as happy as possible in search for a harriero in the closest village.
Eido ran ahead and completed the mission. 2 donkeys and a lovely harriero named Sesimo.
Time was against us, but we did manage walking for some 2 hours before sun-set and we "felt like knocking on heavens door". Setting camp, we built our 2 tents, and made a good rise and soup dinner.
The second day was the hardest. From camp (3800masl) we had to ascend to the Punto-Union pass (4750masl). Waking up early enough, making quick breakfast and planning on a sandwich lunch - we knew we had enough time. Five hours of climbing separated our group, putting Eido & Tal at the pass an hour before us. It took the rest of the group the exact 5 hours planed for the climb (amazing!).
Punto Union is said to be one of the prettiest viewpoint in South America. The clouds covering the picks made me disagree. What a shame climbing all that way and not seeing the complete view.
We did witness a photo-shoot made by the Japanese group arriving with us to the top. Those guys just amaze me every time I see them. They were busy taking photos of every possible combination between the 12 Japanese tourists & guide - with the sign of the pass. While every group was in position near the sign - all the cameras of the group were being used! Chaos and order all in the same time and all with the biggest smiles on their faces.
Descending to camp, we thought Tal & Eido were already waiting for us there - dinner already made and ready to eat. We were proven wrong. Apparently, they liked how the lagoon near the pass looked like and decided to approach it. Later, they were stuck underneath a big rock, using it as shelter from the pouring, sudden, September rain. We were really surprised to arrive to an empty campsite.
All we had to do on the 3rd day was a 2 hour detour and a 3 hour descent to the next camp. Morning time - it was raining, and so the other 4 were wusses and decided to wait until the rain stops and only then continue to camp (skipping the detour). I found myself walking in the company of Josh. Josh is just another AWESOME Kiwi (from NZ). We had a good walk, finding almost every topic to talk about - in our common interest. The climb up to the base camp was easy for us, but not for the animals. 10 minutes up from the Alpamayo base camp lies a lagoon as beautiful as Lake 69, only this time, instead of seeing the summits all around us (Alpamayo included), clouds were still unfriendly. So I did the only thing I could think of - gave my camera to Josh and jumped into the water, making sure there's coffee when I exit the water (of course!).
On the way down (switching the topic to un-religion), we met Eido, Tal & Jutta. The rain had stopped and they regretted their decision. Paz helped Sesimo with the donkeys. Josh & I arrived to camp early, met Paz and listened to good music. If you want to know what happened later - you'll have to check with my good friend Mr.Rum.
The last day of the Santa Cruz was short & easy. The path gets wider, and the way to Cashapampa is all down.
Where the river opens up, there were Eucalyptus trees, some frames really looked like the Golan-Heights back in Israel.
At the end of the trail awaited us a cab (colectivo), all six of us (now with Josh) rode it till the nearest city,where we awkwardly mounted a touristic van already following us all the way from Cashapampa.
Time was running out (for Paz anyways), so we took a single day of rest and joined a large group of Israelis for the famous Huayhuash trek, all ready to leave the day after that.
Having so much fun with Eido, Tal & Jutta - I felt sorry they'd already been to the Huayhuash.



Tips For The Santa Cruz:
- DIY! Do it yourself. There is public transportation to the starting/ending points, donkeys are easy and cheap to hire and anyone could cook for himself! To clear the fear of getting lost - ask the harriero to walk with you and not run to camp.
- The Alpamayo detour - Go for it. Anyone could finish this trek in 3 days, but taking the extra day for this detour is really worth it.
- Rum in Peru is cheap - I've discovered this fact far too late.

Come to Huaraz, It's Fun!

Paz was with me in officers-school in the Israeli army, he decided to make an easy start to his South-American trip, and join a friend already knowing what it's all about. We set to meet in Huaraz because it fit my timetable of a long trip, and Paz could easily arrive from Lima.
Knowing I don't want to be late for Paz's arrival, I got there 6 days early (my count). Paz & I agreed that if I do make it early I'm allowed to do everything except for the famous Huayhuash trek. Knowing I've got 5 days, I went to see some places around the city:
Lake 69:
Huaraz is the first place in South America that staying away from Israelis was just not possible. Every hostel seems like it's over occupied by us. I found a far away hostel thinking it would be better - I was wrong.
Checking out the options (alone or through an agency), I found out it would strangely be cheaper to just take the agency's van. 8 people in the evening turned into 15 the morning after.
We set with the Jaimes (a very Israeli hostel) to leave Huaraz early, we didn't. To complete the delay we also fixed an old spare tire (on our time) on the way - good thing we did, because we also had a flat tire all to our selves.
Arriving late to the trail, we knew we had little time to climb a long and hard way. Even so, we made a very Israeli brunch - Tchina, eggs, salad & Nachle-coffee. We skipped the Nargila due to the height & lack of time.
Some chose not to stop with us, and so we were now 9 on our way up (7 Israelis, one German & one French both amazingly patient to Israelis). Most of the way up I found my self in the same pace of Tal (Israel), Elichay (AKA Dagan, Israel), Julie (France) & Jutta (Germany). The climb was not easy, but we made it to the top in time to make some more coffee & take a bath. The water of this lake/lagoon are somewhere on the top of my list of the coldest waters I've ever bathed in to.
On the way back, I found Jutta as a really nice person to talk to, about everything. Because I'm so good with the ladies, I even had the guts to ask her to spend the next day with me.
A day out with Jutta:
Wilcahuain is an is an archaeological site just 30 minutes away from Huaraz. We took the local transportation, others ride here be bikes. It's a small site, one main building remaining. From there we walked our way down to the ''hot-springs'' of Monterrey. They were not hot at all and I think there was even a part when we both shivered from the cold. At least I picked out very good company.
Ice-Climb to the Vallunaraju:
Dagan said it would be fun! Why not actually?
Waking up, I found out I miscalculated the days with Paz's arrival and he was waiting for me to wake up in the lounge of the hostel. I already payed and couldn't cancel my plans, and so I quickly hugged Paz, told him what there's to do around Huaraz while I'm gone, and was on my way to have some fun.
Tom (AKA Cruz), Dagan (AKA Ha-Katan) & I set off to conquer the summit of that dreadful mountain (5685masl) with Mel, the guide (AKA Gibson). Three days. First for arriving and climbing to the base camp (4700masl) with all our gear. Dagan took the height a bit too personally and started eating backwards. Second day morning, we learned & practiced climbing on the glacier next to the base camp. Using ice gear was new to all of us, and we had our share of fun. We all went to sleep early knowing we have to wake up early (midnight) in order to reach the summit the next day.

Walking on glaciers, all the group has to be tied together, that way, if there's a crack in the glacier covered with snow and someone falls into it - the others get to be pulled in as well. Mel walked first, being an ice-climbing instructor, in Huaraz, he was a lot better acclimatized to the height of the mountain and allowed him self to pull us up to the slops. Frankly, we felt like dogs on a leash.
Asking to stop a lot (because of the fast pace), and because the general pace was too slow, we got to the height of 5600masl at 07:00. Knowing we got less than 100 meters to the top, but we were exhausted and the time was getting late (not good to walk on a warm glacier) - we decided that was that and we had enough.
Descending, as always was easier.

Hatun-Machay:
Paz and I reunited. Dagan had an idea (ever since Lake 69) to go to a rock festival in the upcoming weekend. Paz agreed to try the new sport out, and I was excited to try out my abilities on a real wall (after a long time of plastic walls).
Someone once told me perfect depends on the eye of the observer. Well, Hatun-Machay is perfect. For what & for whom? Climbers! Just heaven. Crazy rock-formations, 30-40 meters high, rise up from a grassy area. A brilliant guy from Huaraz had the place arranged with bolts and about 120 courses in all difficulties.
Paz, Dagan & I checked out the easier ones and still had a very good time. I can only imagine what it feels like for a real climber to arrive to such a place.

Still in Huaraz, Paz and I continue to longer and harder tasks. The Santa-Cruz & Huayhuash treks await us.



Tips for Huaraz:
- Lake 69 - most people arrive and make it their first one day trek. The fact is, some don't make it to the top because they are not yet acclimatized. It's an expensive & beautiful place, and I think it's just too bad to miss it. Go there when you know you can.
- Vallunaraju & Ice-Climbing - Hard. Doesn't mean you don't need to try it. It's not for me, but maybe it's your thing.
- Hatun-Machay - Amazing. Go there, if you like climbing or not. If you do plan on climbing, sleep there a night in the camp or in the refugio. The drive is long (2 hours), and that way you get more time for actually climbing.
- Andescamp is an amazing hostel. A good combination between the price, the breakfast and the amazing people running it. Thank you all.