Showing posts with label Buenos Aires. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Buenos Aires. Show all posts

Thursday, 20 May 2010

Buenos Aires, Capital of Tango, and Paris of South America!

Don't know shit about dancing, and haven't been to Paris, but I thought to try Buenos Aires out anyhow.
The next day (still in Bariloche remember?), I got on a bus to BA. I was promised a 21 hours ride, and right away, I knew I would surely love a Cama sit on the way.
driving around South America, you always have to make a decision:
Semi-Cama - the regular bus sit in any other bus in the world (that slightly shifts back words).
Cama - more space for your tushy, and the back of the chair shifts back up to 45 degrees.
Cama-Suite - space for the tushy, and a hole 180 degrees bed if you want.
Not all the buses and all the companies have all the options. And sometimes the prices jump way up from each different option to the other.
Choosing the Cama option, I knew I would manage to get some sleep on the bus, and that way save a day once getting to BA.
The center of each town I've been to, until now, was the place with all the interests, all the Internet stores, restaurants, mini markets, ext...With BA, It's different. people come here to 'go out', and the places to do that, are located in 2 particular neighborhoods: Palermo & San-Telmo.
Not knowing that, I picked out the most centered (cheapest), Hostel I could find from the Lonely-Planet book I've got.
The place was great, good people, good atmosphere, good guests at the time, good breakfast. Far away from all the night action.
On my arrival day I set of to a center tour. got to know the great 'Florida' street, always occupied with endless population, not really knowing were to go next...(them, not me)
Day 2: ''you've got to see the Recoleta cemetery'' says everybody. To Recoleta we go. If it wasn't Evita's Birthday, it wouldn't be as exciting... but it was better than I thought it would be. Big Fu#@% tombs, of very important/rich Argentinian persons.
Went around the rest of Recoleta, the big buildings (with live people inside) are much more exciting then the tombs.
After Recoleta, I thought seeing a bit of nature would be good for me, and walked my way to the National Park. A dry and flat area on the shores of the 'La Plata' river, meant for just one reason - so that city people could have a cheap (its free) way to go running, bike riding, and make out, with out the risk of getting hit by a car in the process. I tried to get out of there as fast as I can...
Day 3: Palermo! The neighborhood of the rich. Took the Subte, a fun and claustrophobic experience, from the land of the streetrats, and to the land of pure fashon, dogs, and pretty women (usually all together). Seeing the difference between the neighbohoods is amazing, here they have a Botanic Garden, a Japanese Garden, a Zoo, a Rose Garden and lots of other Gardens I didn't have the legs to see... It was Saturday, which means everybody was out. skating, bike riding, and taking the kids to the local zoo. Understanding I already saw most of the animals either in Tanzania last year, or I'll see them in the upcoming year in the wild! mixed with the fact that I haven't heard anything about this small zoo, and the 'round the corner' line of screaming children. Thanks, but I'll pass.
Walking away from the zoo's entrance, my eye's caught an enormous amount of people standing at the other side of the street. Searching the map, I couldn't find any zoo explanation for it... and crossed the street to check it out. Turns out it was the local 'book fair' (יום הספר ) and as I approached, I saw that they were not gathered around, but stood in a long line. following that line (to check out the books!), I found out that it's at least 3 blocks long! At that point I got back to the Subte station, and gave up.
Or, as a greater singer said:
בפלרמו,עיר הקיץ הקסומה,
יש קטלוג תנופת בנייה גדולה!
תיקח את עצמך מכאן,
ותיקח את עצמך מכאן עכשיו,
ולך לישון!

Day 4: As I should have guest, Oren & Liliya showed up. It was Sunday, and I wanted to go to the San-Telmo Market, But they said I should wait for them. And being a good friend, I did. And lucky for me this time... we started by going to Plaza de Mayo (second time for me) to see the great Plaza and the 'Pink House' (the celebrity house from which Madona, Played by Evita, sang to the screaming crowed of her last rock concert, but I'm not sure, so ask someone who cares...). as we were taking pictures, when I say we I mean Oren, two guards where walking in to the big pink think. and they had the strangest tale of people behind them. following and running to shot the great pics, we found ourselves standing in line for a tour around the house.
From the house, to the market! And my first 'wow' in BA! Endless colorful (Oren.liliya told me) market stands, fill with hats, paintings, antiques, clothing and whatnot! all the way from Plaza de Mayo and into Boca (the next neighbourhood). I almost bought a hat.
From San-Telmo, we continued our way into scary Boca. The poverty neighbourhood of BA and the one with the most respect full football (soccer) team in Argentina, Boca Juniors. Sunday, a match! crowd going wild on the streets, singing buses rush by... and Liliya wants to get closer to the 'booms' noises we keep on hearing. The important part is, we made it out of there alive.
Day 5: First Half off the day was a lovely regrouping with Gabi & Achia! then we said our goodbyes and decided to go out at night. Don't go out on a Monday night in BA, we'll leave it at that.
Day 6: Trying to find myself a new pair of boots, no success. walking up and down the Florida street I listened to great street bands playing wonderful jazz, Went Climbing with Liliya, a nice place, just 15 pesos per day of climbing, far away, and we had to rush back to make it to the Tango Show!
A smaller place then shown on the fliers, a loud man with a loud voice, sang very loud. the dancers were great (look up the beginning of this post), and a very strange Indian (well at least he was dressed up as one) thought no one would mind if he would act as though he is playing the playback. The greatest thing about the show, were the orchestra players, they were really worth it all.
The next morning, I took the next bus, to the next stop...The village where my grandmother was born and raised - Moises Ville..



Tips for Buenos Aires:
1. Going out - I didn't, probably because of my hostel's location. if your into going out more then I am, find a place in Palermo or San-Telmo
2. The San-Telmo Market - Go on a Sunday, don't miss it.
3. Tango Shows - you can skip that part. or just see it on the sunday market in San-Telmo

Sunday, 18 April 2010

Living in the Past

Next on my list is to update you all on what has happened in the last two months (it will be as short as possible - but keep in mind - this is a post summering two very intensive months):
some of the dates are approx. because I'm rushing it all from my memory. The future posts, my promise will be more accurate...
20.2.2010
Leaving Israel on a flight to São-Paulo, Brasil.
21.2.2010
From São-Paulo, Brasil to Ushuaia, Argentina, a short stop to switch planes, in Buenos-Aires.
22.2 - 1.3.2010 - Ushuaia
First three days where a shock! But after seeing the ''National Park Triera del Fuego'' and meeting the great people in ''The Jewish House'', I got the hang of it and went for a two days trek to ''Passo de Oveja'' (the pass of the sheep).
One more week, trying to find companions for a longer trek (''Sierra Valdevicio''), walking along the shore, celebrating ''Purim'' in the Jewish house, and trying to find a hitch to porto williams and the dientes circuit.
Tip for Ushuaia:
1. Hospedaje - The cheapest place to stay in Ushuaia. It is run by a nice & hyperactive lady and her drunk ¿husband?. You'll find it on the corner of 'Roca' & 'Deloqui' streets.
2. The Jewish House - In my time the couple running it were just great... Maybe it´s worth it to check who's there when you get there.
3. Whiskey! Its just so cheap here!
2-10.3.2010 - A Gateway into Chile! Punta Arenas.
A too long, 15 hours, bus ride to Punta Arenas.
Meeting Shachar (a.k.a chachachr) and Michael in the hostel ''Roxana'', the Israeli couple showed me around, and told me where to do the Penguin ride (which was fun, but with not much penguins to see - at the end of their season).
Also in the hostel, meeting Stewart, a pipe playing Scotsman, with whom I've done the Cruz de los Mares trek with.
After the 5 day (exhausting) trek, I continued on to Puerto Natales.
Tips for Punta Arenas:
1. If you like going through freezing rivers do the Cruz de los Mares trek. If not, DON'T!
12-22.3.2010 - Puerto Natales & The great Torres Del Paine
After meeting Oren Sochoy & Lilya on the bus to Puerto Natales, started the gathering of information for my first ''long'' trek - the 7-8 days Torres del Paine circuit.
First ''tenador libre'' (all you can eat) at juan's hostel (5,000 $ch).
Finding Iliya, Boaz & Lior to walk with me in the trek.
Eating with Oren & Lilya Menu del Dia (meal of the day) in different restaurants...
and we're off!
The first two days I've done with Iliya, Boaz & Lior. After that I've gone off alone and with very interesting and fun people from all over the world:
Marcus, Germany.
Tristan, CA, USA.
Scott, NZ.
And much more with whom I spent less time and so don't remember all their names.
Tips for Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales:
1. In Torres del Paine - do the Circuit. It´s worth it! Silent, with animals, and the view of the Glacier Grey from the top of the Passo John Gardner is just AMAZING!
2. In Puerto Natales - Don't eat at Carlitos. My hamburger wasn't fresh. I was sick for 3 days.
3. Hostel Esmeralda. With a nice breakfast, for a nice price and in the center.
23.3.2010 - El Calafate & the Perito Moreno
Just 2 days (rushing to make it to the Fitz Roy), were enough to see the great glacier Perito Moreno. It is told by everyone that this is the most beautiful glacier of all... but I am sorry to say, that I found glacier Grey of the Torres del Paine much more exciting.
I've done the glacier with Iliya, which I met by accident.
Also met Til, the greatest German Shepard ever! he camped with me for 2 nights in El Calafate, and joined the short yet good celebration of Iliya's birthday.
Tips for El Calafate & the Perito Moreno:
1. I saw the Glacier Grey good enough, so the Perito Moreno wasn't such a big deal for me. If it was me again, I would consider not going. It's expensive, and if you saw the Grey in a good day, and don't have the money, its OK to skip it.
25.3.2010 - El Chalten & The Fitz Roy
The very small village of El Chalten, is considered by the Argentinians as ''the capital of trekking'' even though, the only major trek in the area is the 5-6 days (going slow) trek, to the Fitz Roy and the even more impressive Cerro Torre.
Before going of for the 2 day trek, I've Made planes with Oren & Lilya to rent a car together for the Caratera Austral, so they have gone off to Bariloche to rent the car, and I was planing on going on the 29th (my birthday) to the forsaken town called Perito Moreno...
That's why, on the night of the 28th (telling myself that its already my birthday in Israel anyways), I went to eat a very large and good stake at a local restaurant. Of course, who comes in, if not, Iliya! we celebrated my birthday together with lots of alcohol & popcorn at a local brewery.
Tips for the Fitz Roy:
1. See the Fitz Roy at sunrise!
2. See the Cerro Torre.
3. Bring enough money and food to El Chalten. There is just one ATM, and everything is expensive.
30.3.2010 - Ghostown Perito Moreno
Waiting for my pickup by Oren, Lilya & Gabi and Achia.
3.5 days I waited. During Santa Semana (Ester), which means everything is more closed than closed.
One Tip - STAY OUT OF THIS PLACE.
2-9.4.2010 - The Caratera Austral
Salvation! they all came, with a big pickup truck.
in the Caratera Austral we managed to do a lot! with a car you can cover a wide route just in few days:
The Marble Caves in Rio Tranquilo.
Horse ride in Cerro Castillo.
Puerto Chacabuco.
The Hanging Glacier.
Hot baths in El Amarillo.
The ruins (from volcanic dust) of the town Chaiten & the south part of Parque Pumalin.
Futalifue.
and lots and lots of views from lagoons, lakes, mountains and snow.
Tips for the Caratera Austral:
1. Know the people you rent a car with. A week is a long time. I was very lucky to be with great people.
2. Don't eat the Asado after the horse ride in Cerro Castillo. It sucks.
9.4.2010 - 'till now... Bariloche
Drove all the way (back, for some) to Bariloche (a.k.a almost Heaven).
When in Bariloche, you have to check out 3 things: the meat, the ice cream, and the endless amount of chocolate.
Done a bike ride around ''Circuito Chico''.
Waited 2 days for the weather to get better (and eating too much), then went off, alone again... to do the trek called Nauhal Huapi Traverse, which is supposed to be 5 days.
Rushing the first day and a half, I got to refugio Jakob where I was told it isn't a very good idea to continue on to the pass. Hearing that I felt the exhaustion from rushing all the way... and suddenly really wanted to finish off this trek. That night I slept in a warm bed again.
Tips for Bariloche:
1. The Traverse should be great, just come in the season. If you don't have the time, do a day hike just to Lagoon Frey & Lagoon Schmol.
2. Chocolate, Icecream & Meat.
NOW!
Still in Bariloche, for 4 days I haven't done much ('cause of bad weather again)... just been with everybody on skype, sent all the pictures from the last 2 months (hopping to erase my almost full memory cards), gone to Cerro Otto (a very good view point above the city of Bariloche), and planed my next moves regarding the last Chile part of my trip - The Lake District & Pucon.
And started a new Blog...hope you like it...
Hasta Luego,
Awad.