Sunday, 18 April 2010

Living in the Past

Next on my list is to update you all on what has happened in the last two months (it will be as short as possible - but keep in mind - this is a post summering two very intensive months):
some of the dates are approx. because I'm rushing it all from my memory. The future posts, my promise will be more accurate...
Leaving Israel on a flight to São-Paulo, Brasil.
From São-Paulo, Brasil to Ushuaia, Argentina, a short stop to switch planes, in Buenos-Aires.
22.2 - 1.3.2010 - Ushuaia
First three days where a shock! But after seeing the ''National Park Triera del Fuego'' and meeting the great people in ''The Jewish House'', I got the hang of it and went for a two days trek to ''Passo de Oveja'' (the pass of the sheep).
One more week, trying to find companions for a longer trek (''Sierra Valdevicio''), walking along the shore, celebrating ''Purim'' in the Jewish house, and trying to find a hitch to porto williams and the dientes circuit.
Tip for Ushuaia:
1. Hospedaje - The cheapest place to stay in Ushuaia. It is run by a nice & hyperactive lady and her drunk ¿husband?. You'll find it on the corner of 'Roca' & 'Deloqui' streets.
2. The Jewish House - In my time the couple running it were just great... Maybe it´s worth it to check who's there when you get there.
3. Whiskey! Its just so cheap here!
2-10.3.2010 - A Gateway into Chile! Punta Arenas.
A too long, 15 hours, bus ride to Punta Arenas.
Meeting Shachar (a.k.a chachachr) and Michael in the hostel ''Roxana'', the Israeli couple showed me around, and told me where to do the Penguin ride (which was fun, but with not much penguins to see - at the end of their season).
Also in the hostel, meeting Stewart, a pipe playing Scotsman, with whom I've done the Cruz de los Mares trek with.
After the 5 day (exhausting) trek, I continued on to Puerto Natales.
Tips for Punta Arenas:
1. If you like going through freezing rivers do the Cruz de los Mares trek. If not, DON'T!
12-22.3.2010 - Puerto Natales & The great Torres Del Paine
After meeting Oren Sochoy & Lilya on the bus to Puerto Natales, started the gathering of information for my first ''long'' trek - the 7-8 days Torres del Paine circuit.
First ''tenador libre'' (all you can eat) at juan's hostel (5,000 $ch).
Finding Iliya, Boaz & Lior to walk with me in the trek.
Eating with Oren & Lilya Menu del Dia (meal of the day) in different restaurants...
and we're off!
The first two days I've done with Iliya, Boaz & Lior. After that I've gone off alone and with very interesting and fun people from all over the world:
Marcus, Germany.
Tristan, CA, USA.
Scott, NZ.
And much more with whom I spent less time and so don't remember all their names.
Tips for Torres del Paine & Puerto Natales:
1. In Torres del Paine - do the Circuit. It´s worth it! Silent, with animals, and the view of the Glacier Grey from the top of the Passo John Gardner is just AMAZING!
2. In Puerto Natales - Don't eat at Carlitos. My hamburger wasn't fresh. I was sick for 3 days.
3. Hostel Esmeralda. With a nice breakfast, for a nice price and in the center.
23.3.2010 - El Calafate & the Perito Moreno
Just 2 days (rushing to make it to the Fitz Roy), were enough to see the great glacier Perito Moreno. It is told by everyone that this is the most beautiful glacier of all... but I am sorry to say, that I found glacier Grey of the Torres del Paine much more exciting.
I've done the glacier with Iliya, which I met by accident.
Also met Til, the greatest German Shepard ever! he camped with me for 2 nights in El Calafate, and joined the short yet good celebration of Iliya's birthday.
Tips for El Calafate & the Perito Moreno:
1. I saw the Glacier Grey good enough, so the Perito Moreno wasn't such a big deal for me. If it was me again, I would consider not going. It's expensive, and if you saw the Grey in a good day, and don't have the money, its OK to skip it.
25.3.2010 - El Chalten & The Fitz Roy
The very small village of El Chalten, is considered by the Argentinians as ''the capital of trekking'' even though, the only major trek in the area is the 5-6 days (going slow) trek, to the Fitz Roy and the even more impressive Cerro Torre.
Before going of for the 2 day trek, I've Made planes with Oren & Lilya to rent a car together for the Caratera Austral, so they have gone off to Bariloche to rent the car, and I was planing on going on the 29th (my birthday) to the forsaken town called Perito Moreno...
That's why, on the night of the 28th (telling myself that its already my birthday in Israel anyways), I went to eat a very large and good stake at a local restaurant. Of course, who comes in, if not, Iliya! we celebrated my birthday together with lots of alcohol & popcorn at a local brewery.
Tips for the Fitz Roy:
1. See the Fitz Roy at sunrise!
2. See the Cerro Torre.
3. Bring enough money and food to El Chalten. There is just one ATM, and everything is expensive.
30.3.2010 - Ghostown Perito Moreno
Waiting for my pickup by Oren, Lilya & Gabi and Achia.
3.5 days I waited. During Santa Semana (Ester), which means everything is more closed than closed.
2-9.4.2010 - The Caratera Austral
Salvation! they all came, with a big pickup truck.
in the Caratera Austral we managed to do a lot! with a car you can cover a wide route just in few days:
The Marble Caves in Rio Tranquilo.
Horse ride in Cerro Castillo.
Puerto Chacabuco.
The Hanging Glacier.
Hot baths in El Amarillo.
The ruins (from volcanic dust) of the town Chaiten & the south part of Parque Pumalin.
and lots and lots of views from lagoons, lakes, mountains and snow.
Tips for the Caratera Austral:
1. Know the people you rent a car with. A week is a long time. I was very lucky to be with great people.
2. Don't eat the Asado after the horse ride in Cerro Castillo. It sucks.
9.4.2010 - 'till now... Bariloche
Drove all the way (back, for some) to Bariloche (a.k.a almost Heaven).
When in Bariloche, you have to check out 3 things: the meat, the ice cream, and the endless amount of chocolate.
Done a bike ride around ''Circuito Chico''.
Waited 2 days for the weather to get better (and eating too much), then went off, alone again... to do the trek called Nauhal Huapi Traverse, which is supposed to be 5 days.
Rushing the first day and a half, I got to refugio Jakob where I was told it isn't a very good idea to continue on to the pass. Hearing that I felt the exhaustion from rushing all the way... and suddenly really wanted to finish off this trek. That night I slept in a warm bed again.
Tips for Bariloche:
1. The Traverse should be great, just come in the season. If you don't have the time, do a day hike just to Lagoon Frey & Lagoon Schmol.
2. Chocolate, Icecream & Meat.
Still in Bariloche, for 4 days I haven't done much ('cause of bad weather again)... just been with everybody on skype, sent all the pictures from the last 2 months (hopping to erase my almost full memory cards), gone to Cerro Otto (a very good view point above the city of Bariloche), and planed my next moves regarding the last Chile part of my trip - The Lake District & Pucon.
And started a new Blog...hope you like it...
Hasta Luego,


  1. if it's possible you can add a link to the relevant picasa pictures, then you combine the blog with views

  2. אהדי אני נהנת מכל רגע, פשוט כותב מרתק. מחכה להמשך המסע... נשיקות